bethany_dale
14.06.2021 16:49:22
Looks to me that they just hung the clamp over the transom and bolted it down. Or the dealer thought the cav plate was those two upper fins because one of those fins is even with the bottom of the boat.
See full version: Boat turns rt. now,? skeg adjustment
Looks to me that they just hung the clamp over the transom and bolted it down. Or the dealer thought the cav plate was those two upper fins because one of those fins is even with the bottom of the boat.
Now look at this backwards -
The boat is wandering to the right so to compensate you want the motor to turn left. To get the motor to turn left, turn the tab to the right. more
The water is still 40 degrees, so I didn't want to stand in it to adjust the skeg as the docks at the ramps are not in yet.
As another poster has said . . . if that skeg was to the right than I have other issues.
Last season it ran perfectly straight after I adjusted it (I should have marked it). I did not make any changes since last season but the Mechanic may have changed the position of the tilt pin? here
Thx for all those quick replies. here
Update: Sad, it's exactly what I thought it was going to be: [links]
- Turn the wheel back and forth just in the "play" area. Watch the ram (motor end) of the cable to see if its moving with the wheel or standing still. If its moving, check the linkage from the end of the ram to the motor for loose connections. Fix if anything is worn or broken.
First determine if the helm has the play or the cable. I'm assuming the boat has a common single cable Teleflex or similar style ROTARY steering (not rack). Rotary helm has big round shape, Rack is long and flat.
- Get to the back side of the helm (steering wheel end) and there should be a plastic tube/sleeve. Unscrew the sleeve and slide it back a few inches. This will expose the end of the inner part of the cable. Looks like a coil wrapped around a steel cable and all greasy. Grab hold of the cable where it exits the helm and hold firm with your fingers, then turn the steering wheel. If the helm and gears are OK, the cable will move in and out and there will be practically no play at this point.
The bolt that attatches the steering arm to the motor should be a shoulder bolt or the arm needs a spacer of sorts so the bolt can be tightened and a nut installed.
Take the 9'16 headed nut off the bottom of the steering arm this will seperate the helm and cable from the motor. Then you can turn the motor and steering wheel and find out where it's binding.
Check for kinks or hard bends in the cable. Those bends should be very gradual, with a bend radius at least ten times the diameter of the thickness of the cable. If you've recently replaced the commonly-used tie wraps to hold the cables up inside the gunwale, cut them loose.
Post by TheLastCall » 11 Jan 2018, 08:25 more
Rumblejohn wrote: I have a four stroke 30 Merc with Teleflex, and the set up should be similar. Mine has very little "play" in the steering. The bolt holding the steering arm to the motor bracket on yours is different than mine, and mine was installed incorrectly by the dealer. The one mine uses is an American Racing Products (ARP) shoulder bolt specific for Heim joints. I has a larger than normal head, to keep the arm connected should the joint fail. It should be installed from top to bottom, lock nut on the bottom ot the motor bracket. At any rate the motor shouldn't flop at any time, something is wrong.
I would take it to a reputable Mercury dealer and have it checked out.
Thanks for the responses. My outboard is a 2013 Mercury 24 HP EFI four stroke (3 cyl). The SN is 0R541534. It is electric start, remote steering, and has power tilt/trim.
Post by JL8Jeff » 11 Jan 2018, 11:41 [links]