See full version: 1991 Evinrude 175 hp stator
This engine should have the vented flywheel with glued magnets. It is not unusual for the magnet glue to loosen and grind between the flywheel and the stator. They can be re-glued back in place. If they have done no damage to the stator, you may be ok. Check the stator and it's wiring carefully, as this the high (35 amp) output system. You don't want to have a problem with this later.
Hi. How bad is it, if I see sparks coming from underneath the flywheel, at Idle it is fine, (no noise, no sparks) but once you hit the throttle, there is a noise like metal grinding and sparks are flying out all over from underneath the flywheel. I will be pulling out the Fly wheel tomorrow, Just want to know what I should look for. Is it time for a new stator? Or Isolation problem? Motor runs fine, no misfire or any thing like that.
Re: 1991 Evinrude 175 hp stator. here
Re: 1991 Evinrude 175 hp stator. more
You wore right, 1 magnet came loose and was grinding, the magnet looks fine, and it just need to be re-glue. Any idea what kind of glue should I used? Also on the pictures 2 plates came of from stator, the 2 pieces came of because there is a push-in clamp that hold does plate in place. I need one clamp, does any one knows if they sell that clamp? There is a picture of the push-in clamp. Any idea where I can get one.
If a stator is cracked and/or leaking, dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead. that creates a AC voltage drop to the power-packs capacitor. In which case, replace it regardless of whatever reading you might obtain. [links]
Thanks for your response. My initials voltage checks found high resistance across the stator windings and leads to ground checks. measured what appeared to be low voltage across stator leads (90v rms meter) but also each stator lead to ground measured 30V rms on one side and 40Vrms on the other. I will be checking with DVA adapter this weekend. The curious thing was the timer base also had similar results (high resistance - infinite, yet measured voltages from each lead to ground when cranking). It seems unusual that both would be defective simultaneously. Have you experienced this? (where both had to be replaced)
Since 1973 which is the starting point of your ignition system (Magneto Capacitance Discharge) I have installed numerous stators, timer-bases, powerpacks, etc etc. never once have I had to reset the timing.
The analog meter, to me, has always gave a true reading. and I came from the school, so to speak, when digital meters and DVA's didn't exist so I'm sort of locked in that time zone and mind frame of having faith in the analog meter. here
And with that $8.95 needle meter.
If you obtain the correct ohm reading between the Yellow wires (Charging). and the correct ohm reading between the Brown wires (AC to pack). and no reading between any of those wires to ground. plus no cracks or leakage as mentioned above. the stator can be considered okay. [links]
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware.
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store. here
Cloudflare Ray ID: 687f671b6dd216ec • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare [links]