See full version: In every issue you ll find
From a structural standpoint, low-slump concrete is good. But it is hard to work with. Since it doesn’t flow, you need plenty of hands available to move it into position in front of the screed. And you need to float the stones down beneath the surface of the wet mix just after you place and screed it.
“Slump” is a term used to describe the consistency of the mix. In commercial work, a simple slump test of the concrete is often required in the field during the concrete pour. In this test, a 12-in.-tall steel cone is filled according to strict specifications. The steel is then slowly removed and the amount that the resulting cone of wet concrete settles, or slumps, is measured with a ruler. For example, if the concrete mixture settles 3 in., then it is said to have a 3-in. slump, or sometimes just a slump of 3. The stiffer (drier) the mixture, the lower the slump. The looser (wetter) the mixture, the higher the slump. here
You don’t need to do a slump test for your project, but you can use the term to describe the mix you need when ordering. For a mild slope, such as the 1-in-20 slope required for a wheelchair ramp, a 3-in. slump will work. For steeper slopes, you will have to go to a 1-in. or 2-in. slump. If you aren’t sure, just describe the job to the concrete dispatcher, and they will tell you what slump to use. [links]
I’ve done a bit of concrete flatwork—stairs, stair landings for decks, some slabs, and so forth—but now I have a client asking for a concrete walkway in front of his house and one section of it, say about 10 ft. long, slopes downhill. It’s not super steep, but it did make me wonder if there’s anything I need to know about ordering, pouring, and finishing concrete on a slope. I have visions of the wet concrete all slumping at the bottom and hardening in a giant lump.
John Carroll, a mason in North Carolina, replies: The answer to your question can be found in the question itself. You’re worried about the wet concrete slumping downhill along the slope, so the best way to avoid this is to order low-slump concrete, which is concrete with a low proportion of water.
Sign up for eletters today and get the latest how-to from Fine Homebuilding, plus special offers. [links]
There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. more
This article was co-authored by Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Gerber Ortiz-Vega is a Masonry Specialist and the Founder of GO Masonry LLC, a masonry company based in Northern Virginia. Gerber specializes in providing brick and stone laying services, concrete installations, and masonry repairs. Gerber has over four years of experience running GO Masonry and over ten years of general masonry work experience. He earned a BA in Marketing from the University of Mary Washington in 2017.
This article has been viewed 371,637 times.
Concrete is one of the cleanest and most versatile types of wall material available. Whether you need a wall as a property marker, a support structure, or to hold back soil or water, you can make one by building wood frames called forms. A concrete wall needs to be built on top of a concrete footer in order to be stable. Afterward, place the forms and pour the concrete to shape your wall. Creating a wall is big work, so consider contacting a professional for help or advice to ensure you get a stable structure. here
Start laying the landscape fabric before you add gravel as a replacement to the original soil. Using the shovel, compress at least a four-inch layer of gravel upon the concrete. [links]
Retaining walls are commonly seen in outer landscapes. They are functional and also add to the aesthetic appeal of your garden or yard space. A retaining wall is a practical solution for sloping backyards. Retaining walls make the entire sloping surface more stable, negating any fears of the soil beds along the slopes collapsing. They also help to restrict soil erosion and prevent the garden soil from spilling onto the pavement. Retaining wall along a slope can be built with different materials. Commonly, retaining walls are made from concrete, tiles and wood. There are no strict rules regarding the construction method or the size of walls either. Building a retaining wall isn't difficult but it is time-consuming. You can do it on your own, provided you follow some basic guidelines.
Check areas that have established water runoff or noticeable downhill spots.
Step 9 - Extend the Wall
Lay the interlocking stones at about half the length of the original concrete layer, in each tier. here
10 Solutions for Sloping Yards here
What is the cheapest retaining wall material? more
Leveling a slope costs between $1 and $15 per cubic yard of dirt. Basic lawn re-sloping to prevent erosion and fix drainage averages at $1,900 for most homeowners. here
How To Build A Concrete Sleeper Retaining Wall
For the average do-it-yourselfer, building a retaining wall is easiest when using masonry blocks that will be stacked no taller than three feet, with no mortar binding the stones or concrete members. (For a curved wall, mark instead with a garden hose or spray paint.) more