See full version: Best Adhesive; Glue for Plastic
Acrylic is one of the most commonly used plastics in home craft projects; it also reacts extremely poorly to Super Glue. A chemical burn can be caused by the glue and the acrylic sheet coming into contact with one another, one that may cause extensive white clouding within the plastic. Though Super Glue can be removed with acetone, that chemical - as luck would have it - also creates a reaction in acrylic in the form of significant scratching. [links]
Plastic can be an extremely flexible and durable material, one suited exceptionally well for all sorts of home projects. It can, however, be difficult finding a glue to use in those projects, as many common adhesives don’t work well with plastic. That’s because many varieties of plastic possess extremely smooth and slippery surfaces; their lack of roughness and porosity make it difficult for the adhesive to find anything to bond with. Luckily, however, there are a few common adhesives out there - some specially engineered for plastic, some not - that can get the job done.
Several of Loctite’s well-known adhesives are formulated to work especially well with plastic. Its Plastics Bonding System offers the resin and activator of an epoxy in small, separate tubes with precise applicators, making it an excellent choice for jobs that require a degree of delicacy. The Epoxy Plastic Bonder, meanwhile, is similar to PlasticWeld in the sense that it contains both elements of an epoxy in one tube with a double plunger for easy, mess-free mixing. Though this adhesive offers remarkable bonding strength and speed, it’s not recommended for objects that face regular exposure to moisture. Loctite’s Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic Flexible Adhesive, on the other hand, is designed to excel in those conditions. As the name suggests, it works extremely well on flexible plastics but doesn’t offer quite the strength of Epoxy Plastic Bonder. If you need just one adhesive for one project, it may be wise to go with one of these specialized formulas. here
As with any other craft project, you’ll want to be sure that you have an expansive, uncluttered space to work with. The usage of adhesives, however, poses particular challenges. For one, both temperature and humidity can play a large role in whether an adhesive will bond to a material. If possible, make sure that your work environment is between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and that there is relatively little humidity in the air. Also, many adhesives are extremely flammable. Working in a space with proper ventilation will not only minimize the risk of fire but also the effects of your adhesive’s fumes. [links]
This super glue is released by Eclectic Products, Inc. and comes in a variety of formulas tailored to a specific need or environment. Though we can’t speak to the differences between the varieties, we can tell you that Amazing GOOP works quite well on plastic for an all-purpose adhesive. It takes a bit longer to bond than PlasticWeld, and it’s also comparatively poor at sticking two pieces of plastic together. True to its namesake, it can also be a bit messy and goopy, which might not make it the best choice for delicate applications. That said, it’s a great choice for most situations, especially when you consider that you can keep a tube of the stuff around the house for any other gluing needs you might have. The Trim Repair and Automotive varieties advertise their ability to work with plastics, so those types are likely your best bet. The only exception would be if you’re working specifically with PVC piping; in that case, the Plumbing formula may be the way to go.
As mentioned, acetone (or probably other nail polish remover products) should work and are safer than chloroform.
My question is regarding what is the safest, best, simplest, cheapest way I could bond many small chunks of cellulose acetate (which contain a dye/pigment) into one large chunk?
Solvent bonding and diffusion bonding require equipment and process control that you clearly don't have.
If all you want to do is form an ingot from a cup of scraps, your apparatus could be as simple as a metal funnel suspended by bent steel wire over a small ice cube tray sort of thing, also made of metal. more
Technically, cellulose acetate doesn't melt as it's not crystalline. It softens and flows though.
It should also have tapered sides so you can get the ingot out, or be made so that it can be disassembled. [links]
Have never used glossy accents, so I probably don't get it. Are they that sticky that they're able to adhere the acetate? Yet, they are visible, right? Can anyone show an example?
I usually try to sneak a brad on there somewhere. I'm suspicious of whether adhesives will really hold. I've had glue dots fail within a year and found acetate diecuts huddled at the bottom of a page protector.
I use my trusty Glossy Accents.
Are you sure your embellishments are not self-adhesive?
I have a pack of Making Memories flowers that took me a long time to realize that they are self-adhesive (it's VERY difficult to peel the backing off too). more
I find the Crystal Glaze clear is invisible when I add clear accents. A thin coat and a simple press down on the object is all it takes.
I use Aileen's dimensional glaze or helmar v-2 spray [links]
Let’s take a closer look at how acrylic materials should be glued.
Once the acrylic has been glued, hold it together for about 15 to 30 minutes. Soon after applying, you’ll notice the acrylic’s joined edges are cloudy white. As it dries, it will slowly become more transparent. Once 15 to 30 minutes have elapsed, you can stop holding the acrylic together – a light bond has already been formed.
First, make sure that your workspace meets the basic safety guidelines outlined in the last section. Then, ensure that you’re gluing on a compatible surface. Do not glue acrylic plastic on a table that’s made from plastic, glass, or paper – the solvent-based glue may cause your acrylic to attach to that surface. This can ruin the acrylic’s cosmetic appearance or damage the table. A table made from concrete, metal, or wood is more appropriate. more
If you happen to spill glue during this process, do not wipe it off until it dries. Wiping or applying pressure to an area with acrylic glue will damage it permanently. Instead, wait for it to evaporate, and clean the area if necessary.