[Tritonio]

Cement blocks are the cheapest blocks of sufficient strength. You want blocks under the rear cornet of the hull and under the keel, where the vee flattens.

[Marsianin]

Cement blocks should be used web side up, as they have incredible strength that way. Much much more than you will ever need. Everyone has seen 3 and 4 story houses built on 8" cement blocks.

[mark4]

To start, I lowered the coupler to the ground (raised rear of boat) then used 4" x 6" and 6"x 6" to build a support under the keel at the transom. more

[dconradcopelande]

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[mezz]

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[Symbiosis]

If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more

[alethiophile]

Note* Headers do not need a lot of water. Just crack the valve open very slightly so that you have a fine mist or steam exiting the headers off of idle. Header water should shut off completely below 1500RPM if the header control tee is working properly. With very large cams the water should shut down to the headers at 2000RPM. The factory header tee valve just does not do the job in this case and the electric water control system is best. PERFORMANCE JET Sells the Banderlog header control valve for this application.

[eugene2k]

I will start with the standard jet boat set up with a through transom exhaust system utilizing log exhaust manifolds and risers. In these systems water is pumped from the jet drive through a gate valve to a tee fitting under the front of the engine. The water is split and directed to the front of the engine where the water is pumped into the exhaust logs on each side. Once in the exhaust logs, water is preheated and routed to the front of the block where the water pump would normally be located. Water runs through the block, on each side, up into the heads and exits out the engine through two fittings on the thermostat housing. From here, the water is carried to the risers and dumped overboard out the exhaust. This set up works pretty well except for the fact that the cold water runs through the engine so quickly that the engine temperature usually runs too cold. In a performance engine, I like to see a temperature range of 140 to 180 degrees. You may disagree but I feel that all jet boat engines are performance engines. more

[marcusaurelius]

Add a bypass thermostat to this set up and you have solved the problem of engine temperature, coolant pressure and proper header function. In some high output applications you may still have too much coolant pressure in the block. If this is your situation, then install a pressure relief valve system on your jet drive water feed in addition to what I have just discussed in the set up above. PERFORMANCE JET sells our own pressure relief kit for $149. I set them to open at 12PSI so that extra pressure is dumped overboard before it reaches the engine. (and you still maintain full volume.) They work great.

[david718]

Bypass thermostat and header feed. Note manifold pressure relief valve. I used this set up in early

[helen123]

In most cases I see, the issue of high water pressure in the engine block really becomes a problem when the jet boat is set up with water injected headers. On these systems the water comes from the jet to the front of the motor, splits at the tee and enters the block where the water pump would normally be. So far so good. The problem arises with the factory design to get the water back out of the engine. here

[eche|on]

source for the headers and add a second dump line off the thermostat housing.

[riX]

So why is this? What good does it do to move these travelers around? As mentioned:

[poet_imp]

So how to use your mainsheet traveler?

[skeledrew]

Before we get into the specifics of the use, let's close our eyes and shed a tear in respectful silence for all the unused main travelers. You see, sadly, it is one of the most underused parts of the whole sailing rig, especially on charter cruisers.