gohan
19.06.2021 7:06:41
Aright Nut I'm jealous, there I said it. YA HAPPY!:eek:
(Da boats lookin good Nut!!)
See full version: How to reinforce a fiberglass boat transom
Aright Nut I'm jealous, there I said it. YA HAPPY!:eek:
(Da boats lookin good Nut!!)
IT IS BULLET PROOF. DO it right the first time, you will not regret it, any ? EMAIL me, I wil be happy to discuss. [links]
hey everyone
in the next few days i will be puting a transom plate on my boat.
Im going out to find some aluminium tomorrow and am interested how you other hotboaters have put transom plates on.
Hey,
thanks for the replys. i think im still going to put on the aluminium plate. Vamp1 how did u put the plates on your boat? Could you post how u did it and maybe some pics if u have them? (greedy i know, but i want to do it right the first time) more
the standard wood transom replacement and added a t-6061 alu plate only to spread the compressive force of bolting across a larger area. The plate only addreses "compression" on the wood transom at the mounting bolt locations, not motor stress.
The addition of gussets from the inside of the transom to the floor and out to the sides should address the transfer of motor stress to areas better suited to handel them and off the corners. [links]
To my mind, a square pipe that bridges across the transom in the splashwell will provide more strength where it's generally needed than a plate on the outside of the transom. I went with a 2 inch aluminum square pipe (.250 wall). It is drilled for the top two engine clamp bolts and that's how it is held in place. It stiffened things up immensely and was easy to make and install.
The original engine pod was bolted to crossmembers that ran the full width of the boat. The most aft crossmember was located about 15" forward of the front of the original engine. When I moved the new engine pod aft about a foot, I had room to place two new crossmembers aft of the last original crossmember. If you plan to use your existing engine pod, you may want to slide one or two additional crossmembers in between the existing ones. The easiest way for me was to remove the trim piece that wraps the boat at the deck, and slide the angle aluminum in from the outside edge. You'll want to check for obstructions (e.g., throttle cable, wires, etc.) beforce deciding exactly what to do and which side to enter from.
I found this photo that may help you understand my earlier description. This is the original engine and pod. The deck above the engine is temporarily raised in this photo.
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I'm away from home today, but I'll post pictures when I can. . On thing I had to consider was the physical size of the larger motor. My original engine pod tucked the motor in close to the boat, under a raised deck at the very back. The bigger motor was so tall it would it could not be tilted up without hitting either the deck above or the fence in front of it. So I swapped to a stronger engine pod both to support the bigger engine, and so I could move the transom about a foot farther back. I also modified the height of the transom so I could get the engine at just the right height to fit in the tight space.
Your pontoon was designed to handle the weight and power of a 115, so why are you worried? You know if you add stuff incorrectly or in the wrong place, you may actually weaken the structure.
Measure the thickness of your transom. Remove the top rail of the transom with the screwdriver. Use the hammer and chisel to remove all the wood reinforcements and the fiberglass core. When you are finished, your transom should have the appearance of an empty envelope, waiting to be filled with reinforcing material. here
Sawzall or other reciprocating saw
Screwdrivers (standard slotted and Phillips) more
Acrylic epoxy paint to match the color of your boat's stern
Palm sander and #000 grit sanding disks
Since this boat is all fiberglass and foam filled, I cannot get behind where this screw goes into the transom to reinforce it. What would be the best way to do this? more
7:12 PM - 1 day ago #1 2021-08-29T19:12 here
It came with a 15" x 15" swim platform and a single rung ladder that folds up. We found it difficult to get out of the water with this single rung ladder so I just installed a 3 rung telescoping ladder. Fits great but when I got o step on it (this is out of the water and while boat is on my trailer) I noticed that the top rail supports where they screw into the transom tend to want to pull out a little. This is with just my weight on the bottom rung. I don't remember it doing this with the single rung ladder using a step stool to get get to it to get in the boat.
Good afternoon! Bought myself a 1999 Key West Bay Reef 196 that is in pretty good shape, but just needs some cosmetic things done to make it the way I want it. here
Would a single piece of stainless steel, maybe a bar across the transom, fixed to it with several screws? (see the pic, the red box represents the reinforcement bar). Then fix the top rail screws to the reinforcement bar? Or is there a way to get behind these screws to reinforce from the back that I am missing?
Herein, how many layers of fiberglass do I need for boat stringers? more
Probably 3 layers fine if you glass or bond the floors to top of the stringers. here
How do you reinforce a fiberglass transom?
Beside above, how do I know if my boat transom is rotten? There should actually be 0 flex to teh transom. If there is no motor, then poke the holes in the transom with a screw driver to see if the wood there is soft. Also, a knock on the transom with your hand or a rubber mallet. here