See full version: OMC tilt motor removal
I am having a very difficult time in finding how to remove the tilt motor (for testing/cleaning/fixing) from my 1969 120HP I/O.
I have the clymer manual and it is such a joke - the paragraph sez to 'remove the 2 screws holding the motor - refer to figure x' - well, figure x is a picture of a hand holding the trim motor next to the intermediate housing. a lot of help that is!
Can anyone help me with specific instructions? I cannot see any screws/nuts/bolts either on the inside or outside of the boat that would be holding this motor in. Is it possible that I have to remove the trim motor clutch/gear assembly to access the tilt motor screws? here
Re: tilt trim pin stuck HELP! more
Its leaking from under the motor at 60(value seat) . [links]
1. First click on the blue highlighted, "View Parts Catalogue" here
the pressure of the motor dropping down(manualy) it wants to force the fluid out of the screw under the pump. The valve in there seems to be fine. I've tried releasing the pressure on the back valve with a punch and it made the fluid come out from the back but still leaking at the front when pressured. Does this make sence? here
BTW, what is the issue with your TNT unit? more
For the clutch pack, I've attached pics. As you can see, the clutch was a mess due to water instead of oil. Really no mystery why it wasn't working right. I tried to include a picture of the seals for the clutch pack shaft, which is a two-part seal. The inner seal touches the shaft inside the housing and keeps oil from leaking out. The inner seal then touches the outer seal, and at that point the seals do NOT touch the shaft. Then the outer seal touches the shaft at the outside of the housing to keep water out. I noticed that my seals are blown and there's a tiny spring inside the seal that was poking out. I'm guessing the seal is ripped. more
Also, when you do get the worm gear out, WATCH OUT FOR THE CLUTCH GEAR HOUSING! That sucker will drop to the ground fast, and pavement isn't good for it, I don't think. Luckily, mine wasn't hurt. Yours might not be so lucky. [links]
From the Seloc manual, it doesn't talk at all about removing the tilt shaft cover plate or how to remove the retainer bearing. The Clymer just says to remove the plate and bearing, without any tips on how to remove the bearing. I solved it by attaching a very strong magnet to the bearing and wiggling it loose. here
Ok, the motor was really easy for me to remove and replace because I'm 6'3" and have 34" sleeves. If you don't, find a friend who does. I reached under my engine (cheek of my face against the stern bulkhead) with the new motor, slid it into the housing on the stern drive by feel only. At this point, the motor will stay in place because of the housing, so you can grab the lower bolt and hand tighten it. Use a socket to go 1/2 turn tighter ONLY. The shaft WILL bind if you go beyond just over hand tight. Repeat reaching down from the top side of the stern drive to put in the upper bolt. Again, hand tight and 1/2 turn past ONLY. here
Re: Trim/Tilt cylinder pin removal
Re: Trim/Tilt cylinder pin removal more
Re: Trim/Tilt cylinder pin removal [links]
I still have to tackle one broken bolt head that contains a titanium drill bit in it as I mentioned earlier.
Re: Trim/Tilt cylinder pin removal here
I am having the same problem removing my cylinder pin. Just can't figure it out. I have 3 of the 4 screws out of the pump but can not get to the 4th one without removing the cylinder. I tried everything. more
Re: Bleeding air from trim/tilt
Re: Bleeding air from trim/tilt more
noisy showa units are rather normal. why do you think there is air in it? has any service been done to it.
and lastly,eventually the unit is self bleeding but if you manage to over fill it it will blow the resevoir off the side of the uniy.
use common sense and the correct service manual.
we have had some success by adding a few ounces of straight non detergent 30wt motor oil. [links]
* Loosen the relief valve and lift the motor up.
* Lock it in place
* Close the relief valve
* Open the fill port and add fluid
* Close the fill port and finger tighten it.
* Release the lock , loosen the relief valve, and let the engine drop (air and some fluid may be pushed out of the fill valve)
* Let the motor rest for 5 minutes to allow all the air bubbles to
dissipate.
* May have to repeat 3 or 4 times to get all of the air out. Basically, when you can't get any more fluid in the fill port you should be good to go.
* (each time you lift the motor fluid gets sucked up into the
cylinder, when you drop it air gets pushed out)
does anyone know to get a diagram of the trim system. i am not sure where bleeder and filler screws are here