See full version: How do I fix my broken trailer hitch
Why? The coupler does actually come apart like the repair kit indicates. so if the coupler itself isn't damaged in any way, why not repair the locking mechanism itself? Do you replace the wheel every time you get new tires on your car? more
You might find one to fit yours without replacing the entire coupler.
If it was bolted on it would likely be cheaper to replace the whole thing.
Re: How do I fix my broken trailer hitch.
I also agree to check the overall condition of the coupler. Is it rusted? What's the problem that made it break? If you install a new coupler lock, will it just break again? These are questions you should find the answers to. [links]
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
Nov 03, 2011 #5 2011-11-03T18:48 [links]
The new axle beam is on order from Freedom Axle on-line and should arrive in 10-15 days. If your ever in need of a new complete axle set-up this is the place to go. They are extremely inexpensive compared to every other trailer shop and supplier both in town and on-line. Remember, Apache campers are equipped with 2200 lb axle beams (or at least mine is) so be careful with over loading. Anyway, I also recieved my new wheel wells and tires yesterday which is great now that I am at a point where I can lay my vinyl flooring and install the wheel wells. I have completed cutting my new plywood using the old flooring plywood as my templates. I drilled through the old flooring into my new plywood for exact locations of anchor screws for securing into the main frame steel (didn't want to have to make any new holes in the frame). I have also started painting the floor aluminum I-beams that help to secure the plywood and started cleaning up and painting the front end lift system track cover that will be exposed. I have found that engine block spray paint with ceramic (to 500 deg.) is the most durable spray paint although curing takes about 7 days, but well worth it. These photos are of the new installed plywood. I just set the new wheel wells in place to verify correct fit-up but will be removed when I lay down the vinyl flooring. If your in need of a good flooring to replace the old try Home Depot or Lowes. They have pre-cut 6x8 rolls for $25.00 and this stuff is the higher end vinyl, don't buy off the 12ft roll cause you'll be paying for a lot of extra sq/ft. [links]
I purchased a 1975 Apache Mesa last week from a guy who indicated that the camper was stuck in the open postion for 5 years so you can imagine what the smell and appearance was like on the inside. I have taken on the task of stripping the pop-up down to the frame and re-building. I am posting as a modification due to all of the changes I will make during this process. I wanted to start fresh and post from start to finish. Here are photos of the camper when I drove by and when I got it home. I will clearly identify added or changed items when completed. Maybe a few can suggest a change or addition that they would have done if in the same situation. Gotta love a good project. I will note that my first modification will be added steel support for the plywood floor that over hangs the main frame steel in front of and behind the tires. The floor is completely rotted and the wood has bowed and damaged the side wall panels and lift system enclosure in the rear.
My main objective right now is to teardown and remove every component to the bare frame. I will post pictures when I am finished welding additional supports for the plywood floor that overhangs the steel frame in front of and behind the tires, clean-up and paint the frame and stablizing jacks, clean-up the electric brakes (possibly replace), replace the tires (on order), replace the front jack and coupler, and possibly install a slide out for a toilet but haven't decided yet. For now here are pictures during my demolition process which is almost complete.
Oct 28, 2011 #2 2011-10-28T18:59
Nov 02, 2011 #4 2011-11-02T15:48 here
Some people think of wood in a negative way due to it’s susceptibility to rot, water damage and warping. But the problem is not really with the wood, but how well the RV is constructed USING the wood. If your RV is built correctly, there should be no reason that any moisture gets into the wood frame causing these nightmarish problems.
Aluminum tends to be lighter weight and the fiberglass sidewall is more durable, easier to keep clean and less susceptible to dents. more
When buying your RV, don’t just inspect the caulking job, ask the salesperson the hard questions.