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05.05.2021 5:12:58
Can I hook up the ignition harness, put 12v to the engine terminals and use the key to start? Is there a way to power the gauges?
See full version: How to start an outboard motor on a stand
Can I hook up the ignition harness, put 12v to the engine terminals and use the key to start? Is there a way to power the gauges?
I have my theory on how it should work, but figure it better to get some help before possibly ruining something.
I came across this site and was hoping some of you could point me in the right direction. We repowered our 2007 Parker 2320 this past year with a new 2016 Yamaha 300 four stroke. Except for the horrible job the so called mechanic doing the work did, we love the new power. After a false promise of the original Yamaha 225 four stroke (04/06 production) being sold, we are now left with this engine in our garage, and would like it sold. Before we sell it, we figure we should prove to a potential buyer that it runs as well as we say it does.
We have the ignition, the square gauges, a 4 prong harness that looks like it plugs from an engine plug to the backbone, a 6 prong that looks like it plugs from the backbone to the back of one of the gauges, 2 short four prong pigtails, and the harness that plugs from the engine to the ignition module.
Please let me know if someone is willing to help or if you would like additional info for diagnoses.
Use the support block as a guide to draw a line across each upright. here
Place and attach the casters. [links]
Fit the second 24” piece you cut earlier against the squared ends of the 4” support blocks. Make sure the assembly is squared, and fasten this 24” piece to the 36” base pieces as shown. This will form the aft end of the shelf for the gas tank, etc. If you only used 1 screw per side of the original cross-piece, go ahead & add more screws to prevent any flexing or movement of the base. more
Attach the support block so that its angled end faces aft. more
Cut a 4-inch support block using 12 degree angular cut.
Just because a "homeless person" stole and abandoned the cart that you later converted still doesn't make it right. It's called "receiving stolen property" and it's a crime in its own right. Stolen shopping carts cost all of us money in the form of increased prices at the supermarkets. If supermarkets lose enough money due to cart pilferage and shoplifting, they go out of business and everyone in the neighborhood loses.
Remove the baby seat back wall of the shopping cart. more
I innertubed the clamp over the push handle cuz I was in a hurry. If I had more time I'd bolt a board to the push handle and clamp the motor to that. here
Every time I clicked on the "Next" button I kept expecting to see a Rick Astley video pop up. There is so much rich material in there that I don't even know where to start. I mean, is this for real, or did I just get pranked by the five of the most perfectly sublime Internet pages in history?
Wrap it with a carpet scrap and wrap that with a bicycle innertube to hold it on. here
My granddad used to say: "To make a carved bear, take a piece of wood and cut off everything that doesn't look like part of a bear."
Here is a link to a post in the top secret files. It shows how the coils should line up with the mounting bosses. You can use a ruler to help true them up against the mounting bosses. [links]
Leave the lower unit off for now until you verify that it is it is just the coils rubbing up against the flywheel.
Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start
I am having a heck of a time. First off I am brand new to working on boats, but I have a lot of experience(college) working on 4 stroke car motors and pretty good "mechanical sense" if that is a term. I recently moved to a lake and am restoring an old 14 foot aluminum boat to fish with. I came across a 1954 johnson qd-15 2-stroke outboard motor that has been sitting for, perhaps, 15-20 years and am going to use it, in conjunction with a trolling motor, on the fishing boat. The motor has good compression, new coils, points, condensers, plugs, impeller, rebuilt carb. When I initially took the lower unit off it had squirrel nests in it. Here is the issue, I put everything back together put the engine in a barrel of water hooked the tank up with fresh gas/oil, I went to pull and I gave it all I had and the motor is, what I would consider, abnormally hard to pull. So I took the lower unit off thinking the shaft was bound and, with the lower unit off, attempted to pull the motor over(with fuel line unhooked just incase). The motor is still entirely too hard for me to pull over (6'1" 240 26 years old who is in decent shape). So I started inspecting things I took the recoil off, with the lower unit still off, and turned the flywheel slowly, I could hear hissing every half turn or so and got some leaking (of penetrating oil that I sprayed into the cylinders I think) onto the ground. I took out the old spark plugs to replace them with some new ones and just for the heck of it tried turning the flywheel. With the spark plugs out the engine is, perhaps, 10x easier to turn over. My question is: What can I do to make this engine easier to pull over. Does it need a valve job? Does it have valves? Could exhaust/intake ports be clogged or laced with carbon? Has anyone experienced this before? I've been lingering around this website getting free info, but can't seem to figure this out.
I didn't notice it being so hard to pull when hooked up the the compression gauge, however I was not trying to start it then. I would say there is little difference in the effort required to turn the motor from when I first did the compression test(before I spent any money), and now.
Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start