See full version: The Smart Buyer - How to tell if that core is wet
Some cracks, indeed, are deep enough to allow water penetration, says Perette. “If you see darkly highlighted dirty cracks, you may have a situation where water is getting to — and mixing with — the core and creating almost a dirty fluid that is being spit out,” he says. [links]
Another simple test is to walk on all surfaces to gauge the solidity of the laminate. “How does it feel?” says Group. “Does the deck have a nice, solid feel, or is it spongy, like a mattress?”
Group points out that water generally doesn’t penetrate a laminate through gelcoat cracks alone. “The penetration has to pass through the gelcoat and fiberglass to the core,” he says. “The cracks are often symptoms of a larger issue — that a [structural component] may be compromised.” [links]
Perette and Group say that water generally enters the core through loose, ill-fitting or improperly bedded deck hardware, seat and rod holder bases, stanchions, hinges and locker latches. “If there are open drill holes scattered about the deck, you know there’s a good chance the core is soaked,” says Perette.
Hammer-tapping takes a little practice, says Perette. “You don’t want to beat on the hull,” he says. “All it takes is an easy, smooth rhythm. You almost want to let the hammer do the work.” [links]
For a small boat, a simple tack hammer will do — just grind down the sharp corners to avoid chipping the gelcoat, says Group. Larger boats might require a hammer with more heft to sound through a thicker outer laminate. “I carry hammers of different sizes and weights for commercial boats and larger yachts with thicker skins,” he says. here
The main bilge pump is wired “hot” or direct to the battery, just in case. This allows the pump to come on when no one is on the boat if water was to enter the lowest section of the bilge. here
The fiberglass and resin structure of your boat is porous (intrusion of water into the gelcoat will take some time). Blistering is caused by water soluble materials in the hull laminate. The effect of osmotic pressure allows water to impregnate below the gelcoat and substrate, forming a blister. There have been extensive university studies funded by the United States Coast Guard regarding the cause and effect of blisters forming in the gelcoat of fiberglass boats. Fiberglass blisters can form in near-surface layers of gelcoat to very deep into the fiberglass structure. The damage can range from cosmetic to catastrophic, (although the latter is a very rare occurrence). The studies seemed to point toward long term immersion of the hull in warm water as a primary cause of hull blisters. Stress cracks on the hulls below the waterline also contributed to the formation of blisters on the hull.
Boston Whaler uses resins and gel coats that resist blistering. There are a variety of ways to prevent the formation of hull blistering:
How can I view some of the previous models and specifications that Boston Whaler offered?
Why are there two bilge pumps in my 170 Montauk (2018 and newer) and how do they work? here
Posts: 2975
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Joined: 11/04/05
I'm looking for ways that I can somehow breach the hull and remove the suspected water. I'm throwing around options like drilling a hole in the hull, draining it and then patching it, to syphoning with a long straw-like tube going down through a gunwale screw hole or something similar. What do I do? Please keep in mind I'm looking for a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't require me taking it out of the water for more than a day. more
It's an old boat and a bit cruddy, but I'm fine with that. I really don't have any interest in restoring it back to its glory days. But, I certainly am interested in keeping it buoyant and giving it all the fighting chance I can. more
Posts: 168
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Joined: 05/25/11 here
If you have any further questions or input, please start a forum thread there and ask your question.
In 2002, the names of these newer models were changed to include 3 digits instead of 2.
Montauk 170
Sport 150
Dauntless 180
Outrage 240
etc.
All 16' models have the Smirkless bow up to and including 1975 as mentioned above.
Generally all boats 1971 and earlier had the Whaler Blue interior color and 1972 was a transition year to Desert Tan. more
To determine whether you have a 16' or a 17' model, take a look at this post in the forum section HERE.
Even though both the 16' and 17' models are 16' 7" in length, they are NOT identified by any 16' 7" name as it would be confusing.
They are identified by either 16' or 17' models and that tells us exactly what Bow they have as stated above, and the size of the Bow Locker Cover as shown in a diagram below. more
Here is the Official word from Boston Whaler on 16' verses 17' hulls is the Bow Locker.
The smaller bow locker has the 16' Smirkless hull and the larger trapezoid locker has the 17' Smirked hull. [links]
If the interior of your 16' model has been completely removed or customized, then you have a Custom 16.
The above models are NOT called 17' models in the Boston Whaler catalogs nor on our site. here