[dconradcopelande]

Battery Charging Coil Output:
Disconnect the rectifiers (there are two)
-One (rectifier) to the right of the CDI that has a yellow, red, and black wire that comes out through the upper right hole on top of coil#1, it will have the black ground that connects to the threaded post.
-Another (rectifier/regulator) under the starter with the same colors, the black is hard to get to but you can leave that black ground wire plugged in.
The Red and Yellow wires used to test the 3 Charging Coils is located in the area of the 2nd rectifier, referred to as the rectifier/regulator by Suzuki. You can trace them up to the stator pretty easily, it should be wedged between the trolling speed knob and the plastic wire casing.
Red test lead to Red wire & black test lead to Yellow: 1.7v or over
(Resistance Test: Coil# 1- .05-.2 ohms & Coil# 2 & 3- .1-.4ohms)

[coino]

Pulsar Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
The black test lead always goes to ground for the Pulsar Coil tests
Put the red on each of the following:
Pulsar 1: Red/Black 2.0v or over
Pulsar 2: White/Black 2.0v or over
Pulsar 3: Red/White 2.0v or over
(Resistance Test: 160-240 ohms) [links]

[teff]

Condenser Charging Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
Meter Red to Green & Meter Black to Black/Red: 135v or over
(Resistance Test: 180-260 ohms) [links]

[Luther]

This information is correct for 1986-1989 DT150, DT150SS, DT175, and DT200�s

[qqvfredc]

Counting Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
Red test lead to Orange/Green & Black test lead to Black: .7v or over
(Resistance Test: 160-240 ohms) [links]

[mustvisit]

IC Power Source Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
The black test lead always goes to ground for the IC Power Source Coil test
Put the red probe on the white/yellow wire: 60v or over
(Resistance Test: 210-310 ohms)
**This is the wire with the funky old school cloth style insulation, it may be white and black from oil)

[LZ]

Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.

[ritobanb]

If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]

[zooko]

If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. [links]

[Artlav]

Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.

[huesped]

Cloudflare Ray ID: 687e6bc92b8e7a64 • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare [links]

[nethoncho]

[cereal_killer]

Set your digital multimeter to the ohms setting and place one probe on the negative terminal inside the connector on the coil. Which probe you place on which terminal is not important, you are measuring resistance, rather than amps or volts. It will be marked on the plastic case to indicate positive and negative. Place the other probe on the positive terminal. Note the reading on the meter. A reading of zero indicates a broken wire in the coil winding and it needs to be replaced. The resistance on this test should read between .7 and 1.7 ohms. Anything outside of that range indicates a bad coil. [links]

[davout]

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery after loosening the retaining bolt on the cable end with a wrench. Isolate the cable from the battery, which eliminates any chance of the ignition becoming energized while you are working on it.

[sunny256]

Testing the ignition coil on your 1998 GMC truck will tell you right away if the coil is faulty. Learning the procedure for testing the coil can save time and money. The coil on the GMC looks a little different from the older cylindrical coils that previously sat on these engines, though the function is the same. You will need a digital multimeter to test the coil; if you don't have one they are available at home centers and auto parts stores.

[nrtr]

Locate the wiring harness connector on the top of the coil. Release the retaining clip on the connector then pull it straight off the coil. more

[ByteCoin]

Remove the probe from the positive terminal and place it on the high-tension terminal while leaving the other probe on the negative terminal. Note the reading on the meter; you are looking for a reading between .7 and 1.7 ohms (your meter may display 7,500 and 10,500 ohms). Again, anything outside this range indicates a bad coil and a reading of zero indicates a broken winding. Replace the coil in either case. here

[dr4Ke]

(I’ve actually removed these and the charge coil from the motor and installed the standard coils under the flywheel and the motor runs great. But I’d still like to know how to test this style and know for sure if these are any good).


image hosting over 10mb

[XaviorPenguin]

The original problem was the motor breaking up a bit at high rpm. I had new plugs, points, condensers, rebuilt carb. I didn’t check the spark with a tester at that point but I suspected a bad coil/weak spark on one plug. I was getting ready to leave on a fishing trip and needed this motor running well asap. I’m not too familiar with this style ignition (as far as testing coils, etc), and didn’t have time to figure it out, shop around or wait for parts to be shipped. I did check prices on all three coils and found they were higher than the 2 new Prufex coils I already had on hand. All I had to do was drill a couple holes in the armature plate for the new plug wires I also had on hand. I converted it back to that and the motor ran great on the trip!

[harrison801]

It seems strange that BOTH coils have open secondary circuits…
I would check the plug boot/terminal spring. These things get rusted easily and lose contact with the plug lead. I would pull the plug boot off and check the secondary resistance again directly on the secondary wire.
PS- The secondary resistance of your coils is significantly higher than your universal mag coils. You will need an ohm meter that can read between 10,000-15,000 ohms clearly. more