Metal
27.04.2021 2:51:34
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The thread by rbarrero ( http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t2611-my-k100-cafe-racer-project-story ) helped make the basic installation very easy. I plan to follow the instructions outlined in that thread on enabling the bike to start in neutral.
just replace the globes with the relays is what i meant [links]
As I said, wiring is a weak spot of mine but I have studied your suggestions, Inge, and I think I understand how to follow them to build the neutral interlock bypass and to connect my temp sensor to the hazard light. more
For the speedo, you will receive 2 different size rotor bolts with magnets embedded in them. Pending your rotor, you can drill and tap a hole for the magnet bolt or ion my case, just used a large washer since I have ZX 636 EBC rotors. See images.
1978 KZ650 SR - Custom paint, Kerker cooler, 4 to 2 exhaust, inverted clubman bars.
2) Direct solder into primary of coil 1/4. [links]
8" to the main harness connector.
Spliced and soldered the indicators from the speedo to the harness conductors appropriately. This way, just plug any play. [links]
Has anyone here installed an Acewell on their bike? I am thinking of swapping out for one as mine gauges are pretty old and ugly. If so, how was it to install? I couldn't find anything about them in the forum, so I thought I would ask everyone.
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6000 series sports bike computer
200 series, small rectangular computers with warning lamps [links]
5000 series, a feature packed computer
3000 series, modular square computers with optional warning lamps
1000 series, rectangular computers with no warning lamps
2000 series, 70mm diameter round pod, plastic or billet more
The display is also LED backlit and orange in color. The unit has two red LED flashing warning lights integrated into the housing. There is one in the upper right and one in the upper left hand corner. The upper right corner is used as your water temp warning light, which the temp can be set by the user. The upper left corner is used as your shift light.
Now that you’ve got the temp sensor and tach lead installed, it’s time to move on to the power/fuel level/clock plug. Included in the box is a 4-wire pigtail to plug into the tachometer’s existing plug. First thing’s first, are you using a fuel sending unit? If not, you can skip this wire, cut it back, or coil it up and move it out of the way. If you are, then you would want to connect the fuel gauge wire on the pigtail to the negative side of your fuel level gauge in your tank. These would then be connected to the ground on your battery. In addition, the black wire on the pigtail is the ground wire, and would also need to be connected to the negative terminal on the battery. [links]
With all the tachometers available on the market and various price differences between them, it’s hard to know which one to choose. Which one can handle your application? Which one has a memory recall? There is also the debate of digital versus analog. Today, I am going to explain the ins and outs of the Viper Pipes Acewell 1100 Digital Tachometer and data system, part #960-11000, and show you the best way to install it.