With the log through-hull pipe knocked off at hull level, the bung once again formed a perfect seal. However, there’s no doubt that, in this scenario, the bung would give you control of the situation and would save the boat.
See full version: Yachting Monthly
With the log through-hull pipe knocked off at hull level, the bung once again formed a perfect seal. However, there’s no doubt that, in this scenario, the bung would give you control of the situation and would save the boat.
This was another tip we picked up on the forums and, despite its less propitious shape, it has all the advantages of the carrot – potentially more, given its greater size. We tried the potato on the broken heads tail pipe and were surprised and delighted to find that it made a perfect seal, accommodating the torn tail pipe without a problem. It was also much easier to retrieve than the carrot and the soft wood bung. here
With the broken seacock tail pipe, the TruPlug again made a perfect seal but its size and the confines of the space meant pushing it into place took a moment longer than it might have. It’s worth noting that the manufacturers suggest slicing the TruPlug to deal with hull splits so, if the space was seriously confined, we could have sliced its nose off and pushed that into the seacock. It sealed each leak perfectly and, like a bung, there’s very little that can go wrong with it, so it’s well suited to this task. The only issue, again, is the size. Stowing two TruPlugs would take up considerably more space than two soft wood bungs, and they’re about £20 each, twice the price you’d pay for a bag of assorted soft wood bungs. more
Keep the bilge and lockers dry with new weather seals.
Yet many boats of yesteryear didn’t feature these seals. Or, if they did, the seals may have worn out by now. Installing a fresh seal is easy, as we demonstrate here on a bilge hatch of a 1986 center-console using a closed-cell medium density rubber seal from Taco Marine, which features a durable self-adhesive backing. This seal is made for Taco by Trim-Lok, a leading supplier of seals for cars and boats. Trim-Lok’s marketing director, Dan Whitener, helped us with this project. here
Boat interiors can get wet from spray and also when you wash down. Keeping that water from draining into the bilge and lockers requires hatches that are watertight. Most new boats today feature foam-rubber-like gaskets that, when battened with a compression latch, seal out water. They also help reduce annoying rattles. more
The old grease on this tilt tube will attract dirt and hold salt. Keep it clean and well-lubed to prevent corrosion. here
So, off with the cowl and out with the hose. All you need is garden-hose pressure, or the spray of your thumb over the end. A high-pressure sprayer might cause damage to electrical connections. Start at the top and rinse down. If they snap off easily, remove any plastic covers from the powerhead so you can do a more-thorough rinse job. Greenwood says it’s safe to drench anything on the motor, but take care to avoid spraying water into the throttle body or carburetor bodies, which could allow water to enter the engine. Then leave the cowl off and let the powerhead dry. more
“I can say that Corrosion Block is a product that stands up to its claims,” said Greenwood. “I found out about it because one of the engineers that developed the product owned a Suzuki outboard. I ran into him some place, and the motor was about 15 years old and had seen regular use in salt water. He pulled off the cowl and it looked like new. So I asked how he did it. This stuff was his secret.” here
Greenwood says that like most silicone sprays, Corrosion Block displaces water, but as it dries it leaves behind a thin coating that does not evaporate away. here
1. Rinse the Powerhead. After every outing remove the cowl and rinse the powerhead with fresh water. You can do this after you’ve rinsed the motor internally with the fresh-water flush fitting.
Moreover, what lubricant is safe for rubber? here
Beside above, is WD 40 safe on rubber seals? According to the website WD40 is safe on rubber. The only materials which are mentioned as being affected are polycarbonate and clear polystyrene. more
Can Vaseline be used on rubber seals? here
Lubrication of seals can be achieved by adding a lubricant to the rubber compound before molding, or by treating the seal after molding. Seals that have a lubricant molded into them are considered to be Internally Lubricated. Silicone Oil or Molybdenum Disulfide can be applied to the surface of molded rubber products. here
Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly. The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon.
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Routine maintenance is an important part of RV ownership to help prevent problems while you’re on the road. One area that’s often overlooked is the rubber slide-out seals or gaskets which can become deteriorated and cracked over time if they are not lubricated regularly. Once these become damaged, it’s easy for water, cold air, and mice or bugs to get inside your rig.
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Unlike their previous two products, the Rubber Seal Conditioner is the only formula that will also protect your RV from damaging UV rays, which can cause your rubber seals to fade and crack after a long summer in the sun. more
“You wouldn’t leave your sunscreen at home when going on vacation, and RV owners shouldn’t hit the open road without the UV protection in the new 3-IN-ONE RVcare Rubber Seal Conditioner,” The senior vice president and USA general manager of their parent WD-40 company, Patricia Olsem, shared in a recent press release. “The very sun RVers seek can cause rubber seals to crack and fade. Rubber Seal Conditioner protects against UV rays thereby helping to extend the life of rubber slide-outs and other seals, which means RV owners can avoid expensive visits to an RV mechanic.”here