[Pippin]

Basically, is there a "Link-n-Sync for Dummies" out there? I have an OMC Service Manual but with out any good starting reference points, it's hard to know if I'm doing this right or not.

[Marlsfarp]

I figured out the throttle plates. That was easy. Somewhat figured out my timing pointer (actually set it while I had the cylinder head removed but didn't use a Piston Stop tool)

[harrison801]

I'm assuming this, so correct me if I'm wrong. I make sure the carb/throttle plates are shut completely on the upper and lower carb (that part is easy). Once that is set, I move the throttle/spark advance lever and/or cam follower so they're lined up properly (this is the part that is most confusing to me since I'm not sure what a good starting/reference point is to make sure my adjustments are correct) here

[firstgrip]

Well some new's. Put in my old plugs that were L77 Plugs (I have a total of 8 of the L77's) no resistor in Place of the QL77 plugs that have a resistor. Out of curiosity I measured the ohms of the plugs, found the QL77's measure about 118ohms I would say typical for a resistor type plug. The L77's measured 0ohms normal for no resistor type plug.
A little back ground on the engine, before the crap in the needle seat and before I installed the CCM reeds, I was having an idle issue. Turns out one of the L77 plugs non resistor Plug that should read 0ohms was reading 4Kohms that's 4000ohms. So all of this crap that I have done was probably due to a Plug that was firing intermittently bad from champion. Anyway that was not my current problem, threw that plug in the trash. After putting in cleaned up plugs she was purrrrrin like a kitten like a 4 stroke almost. Then after about 3 or 4 minutes, started idling a little rougher. Pulled plugs and the were gas and oil covered, guess this is something I just have to live with, unless I try a hotter plug, which I don't want to do, cause of High speed running. or order some bigger idle air jets. I think i am correct in saying bigger idle air jet means leaner fuel mix, right? Or I could adjust the damn floats again, but they are spot on according to info found on here. Hmmmm. Live with it, as I don't do much idling or fix it. On a side note after a high speed run I killed engine with little or no idling, and the plugs were nice and pretty, looked like they should.

here

[m0mchil]

[links]

[toyotalizu]

[links]

[h4ck3rk1ng]

To set the float on these motors, with the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly off level than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked right or left.

[artdegree12]

A reader of these articles found a New Old Stock retrofit damper kit and installed them on his motor. He said it was a much easier job than he had anticipated. There is adequate room to slip them in on the starboard side, and also on the port side after the starter recoil unit is removed, without other major parts removal. The only real issue was where to drill the mounting holes in the shrouds. Fortunately, the retrofit kit came with OMC templates for this. Having used it once, he does not believe that it is truly necessary, as even after being exceedingly careful in using the template to locate the holes, they (the holes) looked to be almost 1/8" out of the ideal position. He actually thinks one could do as well to pre-assemble the two units, lightly bolt them in place and then carefully estimate the places to drill.

[bitcoin_pl]

The main throttle butterfly is operated by a horizontal shaft and a cam off the engine's timing plate when the twist grip throttle is rotated. This shaft is the inner of the 2 shown in the RH photo below. The outer is the idle jet shaft. [links]

[TopSoil]

If you'll notice, the unique starter system on this motor is geared pretty low, presumably to make pulling the rope easier. As a result you don't get the crank speed you do on some other motor designs. This will also effect your compression test. You might try using a rope wrapped around the flywheel as a comparison, using this method, you will get a faster RPM plus also a higher compression reading. more

[LZ]

If the motor still fails to start and the suspect could be fuel, I would then pull the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor, crank the motor over. Fuel should spurt out of this line.

[dporter05]

If you are using a USED (even a new one) fuel pump and the inlet or outlet does not align with your existing fuel lines there is hope. The inlet line (larger hose) attaches to the outer cap that attaches to the outer side of the body. This can be loosened by the large coin operated screw head in the center, and rotated 90 degrees in any direction. The outlet (smaller hose) attaches to a plastic section of the fuel pump body. By removing (very carefully) the 2 screws that hold it together, you can rotate it again in 90 degree segments, even can flop this plastic over and again achieve 4 different locations, but this time with the outlet nozzle angling the other way. here

[linksnappy]

You will note that the current BRP catalog shows kit #0433973 ($34.00 as of 2007) ($99.97 as of 2013) as a kit and fitting the EARLY carburetor which includes the cover #0336049 (discontinued and superseded to #0337833 $12.99, gasket #0334043 $4.08, late needle #0435356 $25.99, needle seal #0315232 $4.99 and cam follower washer retainer O-Ring #0321117 $1.05. Is my math wrong here as these parts are about 1/2 the price when compared to the price of the kit? more

[kat]

This article covers all the 9.9/15 hp motors, however the main difference between the 74-92 series and 93-07 will be the access to the carburetor. This being, the later series manual starter was top mounted on the top of powerhead, and it has to be removed first by the 3 bolts holding it to the powerhead. The tricky part in removing this starter is getting the wire linkage to the "start in gear block" worked up through it's hole in the starter housing, and then reconnected later . more

[stevendowning]

Now if you get a new needle, or even just install a new needle seal, this seal is rubber and unless you smear some Vaseline on the needle threads, (even if you do) it may be so tight, that when reinstalling the outer adjustment knob, that the serrations inside the knob will strip out when you try to adjust it. Time for a new knob also. here

[brightside]

Once you think you are close, at the slowest running speed, turn the slow speed knob on the end of the handle. This knob does not have a lot of mechanical advantage, so you will have to advance the speed, then reduce it to see what gains you have made. If it is not where you want, then look at the "Throttle Timing on Post 87 Motors" in a section below as this goes hand in hand with that. here