Yahtee
22.05.2021 14:25:55
There are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Solenoid activated Choke plates and solenoid primers. The starting procedures are the same for each. here
See full version: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures Verified
There are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Solenoid activated Choke plates and solenoid primers. The starting procedures are the same for each. here
As in the remote keyed ignitions, there are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Choke plates and primers. The starting procedures are different for each and are as follows: here
This seems to come up quite a lot, so this Thread is an attempt to capture the common cold-start procedures for the various types of ignitions, and fuel delivery systems for OMC outboards. The following are standard guidelines for cold-starting. Your particular outboard may vary, but these procedures should give you a good baseline. There is no substitute for knowing the particular quirks of your own equipment.
Choke plates are butterfly plates located at the back of the carburetor body. When engaged, they restrict the flow of air through the carburetor forcing more fuel to be drawn through the idle and mid-range jets while cranking. The choke is only effective while the motor is turning and drawing air through the carburetor body.
Regardless of the year and type of outboard the steps common to all these are: more
Hi all,
I'm new to forum so any help would be appreciated. I have a 2010 Suzuki DF 200 4st. It doesn't like to start when it's cold. Starts fine all day after that but the first time is a pain. It might take 20-30 key turns to fire it up. Any ideas? Is there a cold start injector or does ecm just pulse injectors at start? I'm waiting on manual to get here but it wont make it before weekend. Any thoughts where I might start looking?
Hi Spencer. Welcome to the forum. I don't think there is any cold start injector on the motor. I think the ECM richens the mixture and sets the RPM during cold starts. Based solely on my experiences over the years with fuel injection systems, the first place I would look is an IAC that is sticky when it's cold. Could be some contamination or goo of some sort that makes it less responsive until it warms and loosens up a bit, so cleaning with a throttle body cleaner might help. Second thing I would look at would be the intake air temp sensor and the MAP sensor. These are checked with a digital ohmmeter. Specs should be in your manual when you get that. And of course, it might require that you get it to a shop where they can hook it up to a computer to see what faults might have shown up over time. more
I meant to ask this first . when cold, does it not try to fire at all? Or does it act like it's trying to fire, but just can't quite catch? Or does it fire up but die immediately? One might draw different conclusions, depending on the answer.
Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.
The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders. [links]
I will replace the plugs first, then . more
Issue came up a few weeks ago after sitting for a month/not running it.
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(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves) more
Engine runs great and starts every time once I get it started. PAINFUL to get it started from a cold start though.
Unlike a Mercury outboard, holding the key down does not "choke" the motor until you engage the starter. No fuel flows to the cylinders until you actually crank the motor.
I had the same problem with mine for quite a while. I rebuilt the carbs with some improvement. Then I decided to take a look a look at the primer solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it. Replaced all the hoses running between the solenoid and the cylinders. Better but still not 100% more
Another symptom was a lot of smoking after it finally did start. It would start and quickly shut down several times, then not start at all for quite a while. here
I could not use the boat for 3 weeks, and when I tried to start the boat yesterday I had a lot of trouble! Is this a common occurence after letting the fuel sit for as little as 3 weeks?? I do treat the fuel with a stabilizer at each fill up. I had about 35 gallons in the tank(which holds 80 gallons). Could it be water, or separation of the fuel resulting in burning alcohol? here
Thanks for any suggestions! here
BTW engine is 1997 175 hp Johnson Ocean Runner with about 350 hours., new power pack and new optical sensor this summer. Engine ran great 3 weeks ago, and ran great yesterday after the initial battle to get it started.