puddinpop
17.06.2021 22:12:05
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David, those coils have an extra ground wire that is part of the “kill switch” setup on that motor. When the throttle lever is moved to stop, the lever contacts both coil ground wires that sit in a tiny housing built into the magplate. The wires and eyelets are alternated with insulating bakelite washers within the housing so they don’t contact each other. It sounds as though the kill switch wires may be broken off.
I have been restoring a 1948 Johnson Seahorse TD 20 5 HP outboard. I now have it running well but it will not shut off.
I have located the Stop switch contact under one of the coils. There was some corrosion I have cleaned up but there were also two eyelets attached that appeared to have wires broken off. If these wires are required, where should they be connected to?
Your help is much appreciated.
The kill switch wires were completely missing. To match the original wiring layout, can you tell me where the kill switch wires should be connected? The three ground wires look to be orange (to the magneto plate), green (to the points breaker), and black (to the magneto laminated pickup)
Each set of points has two wire connections. The connection closest to the coil is where the longer coil wire and the condenser attach. The further connection is where the kill switch wire connects. So the kill switch wire is independent, and connects the points to the top side of the insulated post/housing. Both kill switch wires go to the same point so they are two different lengths. [links]
This page says TD-20’s were built between 1946 to 49.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/engine-model-guides/omc-johnson-evinrude-model-number-guide/omc-johnson-evinrude-model-number-guide-00045.html
They will run at 60 to 65 psi compression, but my best
“idler” has 70 psi on both cylinders.
A ton of them made, so not worth a whole lot.
I gave a least 10 parts TD’s away the last couple of years
just to make room for other motors, lol.
Hello, Thank you for your help in advance. I recently acquired an original Johnson Seahorse. After reading some posts I realize it’s pretty common model. I was told it was from the 50’s but was reading and seems TD20’s are from late 40’s? Also what would be the rough realistic value of this outboard? It appears to have compression but I have not attempted to get it running. The decal on one side is in excellent shape but the other side not that good. The serial number is 624542 and has TD20 stamped below it. Thank you. more
They aren’t worth a whole lot, but they are good runners and seem to last forever if treated right. They use 16/1 gas/oil ratio and many old motors have been ruined due to people not knowing and running them on 50/1 like the 60s motors. There are people selling special leather pump seals for the carburetors, and the gaskets are easy enough to make. Set up right they are good fishing motors for small johnboats, etc. I’ve seen them beat up and looking like they were dragged behind a truck and they still ran well. I used to have one that was so ugly, I called it “thief proof”, but it ran like a new motor. Around my area, they were the most numerous “grandpaw motor”. Here’s some good info on the carb. There is an address down on the page about the leather seals.
http://pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html
http://pochefamily.org/outboard/ here
I believe the TD-20 S/N 624542 is a 1948
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Thank you for the information. I will be starting the project tonight. I have seen a lot of postings talking about how to modify or make your own cork floats if needed. Is there any special kind of shelac that is used? Are people using an aerosol and spraying them, or dipping them? more
Here follow this link to an antique motor club thread about your carb:
Re: Johnson SeaHorse 5 Hp TD20 Serial 661825 Carburator [links]
Re: Johnson SeaHorse 5 Hp TD20 Serial 661825 Carburator more