siddhantmantri
28.04.2021 11:34:58
Suspect the kill switch is the problem??
See full version: Thread: problem with gear changing
Suspect the kill switch is the problem??
Hi. again,
We put the boat in water to day and the kill switch works perfectly when shifting from forward & reverse to neutral which I understand is the only time it should work?
However when shifting into forward or reverse the gears don't seem to mesh smoothly, there is a clunk or greating sound is this normal?
I tried adjusting the end guide of the shift cable across the slot in 4 stages until I have it the full way across but it did'nt make any inprovement at any of the stages.
I also moved the brass barrel two rotations longer & shorter but all this achived was the boat still moved slowly when remote control was shifted into neutral position.
My concern is that I did'nt notice any clunking or greating last year when the old shift cable was working properly, and I am worried this will cause damage to the gears.
If this sound is normal is it better to ease it into gear gently with the greating sound (like gear wheels grinding of each other) or slam it into gear with a clunking sound.
Hi. again,
We put the boat in water to day and the kill switch works perfectly when shifting from forward & reverse to neutral which I understand is the only time it should work?
However when shifting into forward or reverse the gears don't seem to mesh smoothly, there is a clunk or greating sound is this normal?
I tried adjusting the end guide of the shift cable across the slot in 4 stages until I have it the full way across but it did'nt make any inprovement at any of the stages.
I also moved the brass barrel two rotations longer & shorter but all this achived was the boat still moved slowly when remote control was shifted into neutral position.
My concern is that I did'nt notice any clunking or greating last year when the old shift cable was working properly, and I am worried this will cause damage to the gears.
If this sound is normal is it better to ease it into gear gently with the greating sound (like gear wheels grinding of each other) or slam it into gear with a clunking sound. [links]
I had a similar problem with my merc cruiser. Mine was stuck in drive, the throttle worked but wouldn't go into reverse or neutral. It was the shift cable. After repairing this found a laundry list of problems. I had the upper end rebuilt completely cost around $2500-$3000 Bought a brand new universal lower for $600-$700. Later I found that there was better deals around I guess I should have done more research and not took the first quote I received.
[links]
Shift the cable into the wide-open throttle position using the controls at the driver’s station while your assistant rotates the propeller counterclockwise. Continue this action until the propeller shaft stops, indicating that the clutch is fully engaged. This action pulls the shift cable inward. more
Shift the controls into the reverse position and extend it to the wide-open throttle mode while your assistant rotates the propeller clockwise until it stops. This process will indicate full clutch engagement. Remove the cover from the controls and locate the shift lever adjustment stud if the clutch does not engage. Loosen the stud using an open end wrench and move it slightly upward inside the slot and test again. Repeat the process until the clutch becomes engaged.
Turn the brass barrel clockwise four turns, install it back on the mounting post, and reinsert the clevis pin.
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Your local Auto Parts Supply Store will usually sell a Spark Tester. Get the best spark tester they have. This is a great tool to keep in your boats tool box. Remove the main coil lead from the center of the distributor cap and install the Spark Tester. Make sure the other end of the tester is attached to a good clean ground. Crank the engine and check for spark. If you have no spark, there are several things which can be at fault.
Electric fuel pumps make a whinning noise when they run. Most come on for about 5 seconds when the key is first turned on. If you have an electric fuel pump and you don't hear it making any noise when the key is on, you might have a bad fuel pump. You might also have a bad connection on your Oil Pressure Switch. There is an Oil Pressure Switch which keeps voltage to the electric fuel pump once the engine is running. If the oil pressure drops, the fuel pump stops and the engine shuts off as a protection feature. The switch is mounted down low on the port side of the engine block and it can get splashed with water. Unsnap the plastic harness plug from the oil pressure switch and make sure the connections are perfect. [links]
So you know your battery is good and the starter works OK because the engine turns when you try to start it. You crank and crank and crank but it just won't run.
Electric fuel pumps can easily go bad from just sitting. The fuel turns into varnish and the pump fails. If you are going to let your boat sit for 6 months or more, you should run Fuel Stabilzer through the fuel system.
The Fuel Stabilzer will keep the fuel from ruining the fuel pump. here
If your engine won't crank or turn over, go HERE.
A quick check of the carburetor will allow to confirm the engine is getting fuel. This is usually done by advancing the throttle lever while lloking down into the throat of the carb. You should see a spray of fuel as the throttle is being advanced. If the carb looks dry, it is! A closed fuel valve, a faulty antisyphon valve, a bad fuel line or a clogged fuel filter can prevent fuel from reaching the carburetor. We even have an occasional cutomer with no fuel in the tank! more