altsa
26.04.2021 15:00:48
I am a carpenter, not good wit hmotors, trying to sell th bat o trying to avoid taking it in the shop. Ran great a few nths before.
See full version: 1985 90 HP Mercury fuel problems
I am a carpenter, not good wit hmotors, trying to sell th bat o trying to avoid taking it in the shop. Ran great a few nths before.
Re: 1985 90 HP Mercury fuel problems?
I also call a local shop gave them my serial number 6623946 85 90 HP inline 6) and he said the old style is not avalable but the new style is but he is not sure if it will work??
The valve should shut off completly, You either have a bad valve or a piece of crud stuck under the check ball.Remove and try to clean it with some carb cleaner and re-check it before you re-install.[/QUOTE
Re: Mercury fuel pump suction thru anti siphon valve
My tank is in the hull and the fuel line is uphill all the way to the motor (1998 Merc 200 HP carbed outboard). I installed new 3/8" fuel line with a primer bulb nearer to the motor (12' from the tank). Once primed, no problem but when shut off, the fuel in the line drains back into the tank. I Installed an anti siphon valve and it still drains back to the tank. I could blow backwards thru the valve so it is not positive shut off (not sure if is supposed to be?).
The valve should shut off completly, You either have a bad valve or a piece of crud stuck under the check ball.Remove and try to clean it with some carb cleaner and re-check it before you re-install. here
Re: Mercury fuel pump suction thru anti siphon valve here
Re: Mercury fuel pump suction thru anti siphon valve more
Another big issue is no reverse gear as posted earlier.
I thought about looking for another 60hp plus to re-power, but they seem scarce, look beat or are well out of range.
Sneezing and hard to start are often indicators of the carburetor low-speed mixture being adjusted too lean. I like to use a pencil to draw a small line showing where the slotted (low-speed) mixture screw head is "set", and then carefully noting the amount of turn, turn (clockwise) the mixture screw until it "seats". For a 1975 model, often, the adjustment will be approximately one and one-half turns counter-clockwise open from seated. Both the top and bottom carburetors should be adjusted the same. If the mechanic did adjust carburetors to approximately one and one-half turns open, then adjusting both carburetors one-eighth of a turn counter-clockwise can be experimented with to try on the water for improvement. The specifications call for 4800 to 5300, and I would certainly want to achieve around 5300 to 5500 when lightly loaded. As a 1975 is a battery powered CDI ignition, and the ignition components are real money, I dislike reading that the wiring is "rough, but will last a season or two". Sounds like a sure way to blow/damage the switchbox (ignition module) and/or rectifier, and offer a (small) risk of an engine fire. My first thought on the reverse lock would be a missing, damaged, or incorrectly indexed reverse lock cam.
He put a new water pump in it and the pee stream looks much better.
He said it had the wrong prop (too big & not enough pitch) and wrong plugs in it and he adjusted the carbs. I’m not entirely pleased with it though. It was sneezing at first start/warmup. I ran it at 90% open and crusing speeds for almost 2 hours. Seemed to run well but I was concerned it was over revving. (No tach) seemed to run higher rpms this time out.. [links]
Maximizes engine performance with all grades of gasoline.
The Mercury Fuel Care System is the first line of defense against fuel-related problems. However, Mercury also recommends the following precautions to protect your engine:
Fuel additives keep your fuel optimized, protect your fuel system, and remove any leftover deposits. With the Mercury Fuel Care System, you can trust that you’re using products that are specially formulated – by your engine’s manufacturer – to help you get the most from your Mercury engine. [links]