See full version: Technical Resources
3. 100% Depth of Discharge - This essentially means that you'll have full power regardless of the level of charge. Traditional batteries tend to lose power and capacity as their charge is depleted. By the way, Minn Kota Precision chargers are compatible with lithium batteries. here
Lithium batteries are starting to become more and more popular for a variety of reasons: here
When it comes to selecting trolling motor batteries, there are a few things you will want to consider: Battery type, battery amperage hour rating, size and budget.
The "traditional" batteries are still -by far- the most popular trolling motor batteries but Lithium batteries are catching on.
My more detailed description of lithiums may indicate a bias on my part but that's not necessarily true. Due to the lack of knowledge for lithium batteries, I wanted to describe the technology in more detail. Ultimately, good quality batteries with the right specs (see below), will provide adequate power for a full day of fishing. [links]
I have a 12V Mercury Thruster trolling motor with a foot pedal and I have a few questions about it. The power cord from the socket to the foot pedal was mostly gone when I got this boat. I have replaced the cable and I'm not sure where the wires attach on the pedal. I have the hot wire (the wire I replaced with is red & black) going to one side of the connection and the ground to the other side. The plate the socket (3-pin round type) is mounted on has several switches, and I only have power (12 VDC) at the socket when the "Charge/Run" switch is on "Charge". The way I currently have the power wires connected to the foot pedal the motor works, but I have no control. When I flip the switch to "charge" the motor turns on and the prop spins. The switch on the pedal and the speed/off rheostat does nothing.
I don't know if this is applicable, but when I remove the cover from the top of the trolling motor I see the wires that go down the shaft to power the motor. When I check continuity on these wires they check shorted. Since this is a motor I assume it should check that way. Is that correct?
I have some misc. problems with how the switch plate has been wired (rigged throughout the years) and I can correct these issues, but I don't understand what I'm doing wrong to have no control on the pedal. Is the rheostat bad? Can I disable it and make the foot switch full throttle only? I have attached pictures for reference.
In some cases, the trolling motor fails to run at all. This is sure to put a damper on your fishing trip.
In some trolling motors, such as mechanical steer models, the motor is designed with foot pedals to control the motors. Many users may face problems turning the foot pedal and controlling the motor.
Take cover off of the control box, unplug all colored wires, leaving the solid black wire connected. Then, with an external hard wire from positive terminal on the battery induce 12 volts to each of the colored wires. If the motor runs on all, you probably have a speed control switch problem.
So you’re looking for an electric outboard to whizz your RIB around the harbour. Who wouldn’t want a fancy Torqeedo to hang off your transom? But at £1,450 and up, chances are it’s not in the budget. A solid alternative, however, is the trusty trolling motor at a fraction of the cost. With prices starting at under £100, the best trolling motors are lightweight, dependable, and if you pay a bit extra, extremely well-built.
The cast aluminium drive shaft won’t be as durable as composite versions, and the plastic head cover is definitely on the flimsy side. But there’s a sturdy fin at the base of the motor to protect the prop and the tiller extends up to 35cm and angles up nicely. For the money, it’s hard to beat. [links]
RRP: $229 / £175 more