See full version: How to Troubleshoot a Miller Welder 1E
Turn the choke fully counterclockwise before starting the welder engine when the engine is cold. Slowly rotate the choke clockwise as the engine warms up. Rotate the choke until you have rotated it clockwise as far as it can go.
Adjust the engine speed if the weld output is low. Start the engine, and place the throttle against the stop in the "Power" position. Place the "Weld/Power" switch in the "Power" position. Rotate the nuts on the power speed adjustment until the engine runs at 1,800 revolutions per minute (rpm). Check the speed of the engine with a tachometer. Place the throttle in the "Weld" position. Check that the throttle sits against the stop. Place the "Weld/Power" switch in the "Weld" position. Loosen the weld speed adjustment screw on the throttle with a screwdriver until the engine runs at 3,600 rpm. Tighten the adjustment screw. Press the governor arm toward the carburetor until the engine idles. While holding the arm, rotate the idle adjustment screw until the engine runs at 1,500 rpm. (The idle adjustment screw is on the carburetor.) here
Place the "Weld/Power" switch in the "Power" position if the unit has no power output. Place the throttle in the "Power" position.
Move the "Weld/Power" switch to the "Weld" position if the welder has no weld output. Check that the connections to the switch remain secure.
The Miller Roughneck 1E is a portable arc welder/generator combination. The unit employs an electric-start, gas-powered engine. Miller has manufactured welders since 1929, and you can find its units throughout the world. Problems that may occur include low or no weld output, dirty spark plugs and air filters, and low power output. Perform a little troubleshooting on your own before calling a Miller technician for a service.
Remove and clean the paper air cleaner, or filter. Tap lightly against the filter to dislodge debris. Do not use compressed air on the filter, which could perforate the surface. Always cover the air filter hole when cleaning the filter to prevent dirt from falling into the carburetor. [links]
I have a older bobcat 225 plus that I picked up for a project, the guy told me he was welding with it the day before and the next day it stopped.
hope I got enough info for some of the people that know this and tell me where to go from here. here
if not ask I may have done the test just not posted what i did.
Recently I had a new 15A 240V power outlet fitted to a location where I'm building a trailer and I've got a single phase stick welder designed for a 15A outlet to plug into it. At the welder's maximum current setting of 140 Amps it ran great and I did test welds which burnt up 6 welding rods. Later on I noticed the newly fitted circuit 20A breaker/earth leakage had popped which must have occurred some time towards the end of the welding session as I hadn't noticed the lack of power. Anyway the welder is recently serviced unit with all connections input and output having been cleaned or renewed which it did need at the time. The mains supply to it is newly fitted with cable capable of supplying higher current than the breaker is rated for but the electrician fitted a C curve breaker instead of a D curve which is suited to inductive loads like motors and transformers. more
I'm posting this in the general forum rather than the welding section as the query is more about AC mains power factor than actual welding of something, if the moderator wants to move it to welding then feel free.more
My main question is this: I understand some power factor capacitors will help reduce current draw. I have two 415 Volt 250 Amp single phase welders that both have three parallel power factor capacitors inside and was thinking of borrowing two of the three caps from the surplus welder to fit to the smaller welder for a trial power factor correction. The smaller welder is 0.56 (140/250 amps) the current of the larger welder and I can series /parallel the three caps to get half the capacitance of the the three wired in parallel.
The nameplate of the smaller welder claims up to 35 Amps draw intermittently while also claiming a 15 amp power supply is adequate, it's a design from the 1970's so I think power factor and efficiency was not a concern when they were made to a price. Both welders made by the same welder manufacturer CIG which I understand are locally made Miller welders. more
When a current load is placed on the small wire, it 'sucks' down the magnetic ability of the reactor, hence, limiting the current output. As you noted, clean it out, and it should be back amongst the living. [links]
Down at the Steubenville Works of Wheeling Pittsburgh Steel I found an old motor generator welder today. I wired it up and turned it on and the AC side works fine. Comes right up to speed no problem. However I do not get anything from the DC side. It reads only a couple of volts at most, and the exciter at the brushes is reading only 1 to 2 volts.
Slapping a magnet on it does essentially the same thing as flashing. it establishes a field with which it will all 'start'. It does work nicely- I do it on DC automotive generators, welders and AC generator systems all the time. I use a big 250lb pull job my dad bought from Edmund Scientific in 1982.
One problem with flashing these MG welders is flashing it the wrong direction. Another problem is that your battery should have a rather hefty silicon diode is series so that when the voltage comes up the battery will not have 25 to 80 volts across it - bad for a 12-volt or 1.5-volt battery. To overcome the voltage drop of the diode you would need at least 3 dry cell batteries in series.[links]
SO. once it's going, put a load on it, and let it work for a while. On generators, use resistive loads, avoid inductive loads. it'll build better, stronger, and faster, without ever messing with wiring. more
When I was at Carnegie-Mellon University in 1981 I bought a Hobart MG welder that they had set up to provide 24 to 32 VDC for experiments. One thing that I did not get with it was the variable resistor for setting the amperage. After I moved in with grandmother in 1982 I contacted the Hobart dealer in Akron, Ohio and they were able to have Hobart send me an electrical schematic. The DC generator was a 2-pole machine with 3 brushes. I later found out from a book at the John Carroll University is that the purpose of the 3rd brush was to provide a negative feedback so that voltage droops as current is drawn from it. Essentially, these generators operate partly on the principle of an Amplidyne cross field generator that was at one time used as a servo amplifier for leveling elevators. I eventually shipped this to a friend in Connecticut. [links]