PDA

See full version: No power to ignition switch


Nerd
02.06.2021 22:33:39

No, "hot" means voltage, not what it feels like. A $10 test light from an auto parts store is what you need. Hook it to the negative post on the battery and turn on the key- your small wire to the solenoid should have power- touch the tip of the test light to the terminal and it should light up. Also, you should have one heavy gauge wire going to the ignition switch and that should be hot all the time whether the key is on or not. That wire should be fused to the battery/power bus.
Pics would be helpful. [links]


prestonsco74
30.05.2021 16:36:32

Re: No power to ignition switch here


knight
28.05.2021 16:50:03

How would I tell if I am getting 12V to the solenoid. When you say gets hot, is that to the touch, as in touching it with my hand as I turn the key? I will go out and get some pictures. Thanks for the help. here


benyclawn
25.04.2021 23:03:04

Re: No power to ignition switch


Mackendra99
17.05.2021 19:03:10

I had a similar issue once: more


bitmagick
22.04.2021 6:17:48

Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.


Kline
10.05.2021 20:20:16

If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware.


laurenexbush
09.06.2021 15:34:28

Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store. [links]


Thor
15.06.2021 15:02:56

When you jump start the engine, you should press your brake pedal. If the brake pedal doesn’t work, then you need to inspect your brake detector.


Mira
05.06.2021 22:20:00

Depending on your model, a control module could be anywhere, even under the seat. And if you notice that your high-quality electric riding mower won’t start no clicking comes from the device, or cranking doesn’t work, then this module could be faulty. [links]


destinbrides
07.05.2021 3:53:37

When you release the key to the ‘Run’ position, this DC of twelve (12) volts is then redirected. Instead of going to the starter and motor, it moves to the alternator and anti-afterfire solenoid only. Together, these parts help to charge the battery and start auxiliary power sources like headlights and power plugs.


legion050
05.06.2021 1:09:04

A control module is a printed circuit with resistors, relays, and a ground side that receive commands from the safety switches. If the sensors in the motor work correctly, a circuit module will also output a command to the starter through the solenoid. However, not every mower has one. [links]


melinamoore373
17.05.2021 12:54:11

Battery troubles are one of the most common reasons a mower won’t run or click. A corroded battery won’t start an engine, and neither will a drained battery, when you forget to turn off the safety switch. more


testaccount1
08.05.2021 14:49:02

Like automobile car, riding mower use a new battery, starter motor, and ignition switch. When you turn the ignition switch to the ‘Start’ position, 12 volt of direct current travels from the battery through the starter solenoid to the starter motor. This current also flows through a cable to the anti-afterfire solenoid in the engine


carp
04.05.2021 22:47:05

For the starting circuit, I looked at the wiring diagram for a tractor of similar vintage. I could not find your exact manual but I'm very confident it's the same. BTW, you are measuring Voltage, not Current. There are 3 things in series, as you've observed, before you get to the solenoid. Battery voltage goes thru the ignition switch, then to the clutch/brake pedal switch, then to the PTO switch, then to the solenoid, in that order. So, with your meter set to measure 12VDC, start at the ignition switch. You said you did that and you are seeing 12V when the Ign key is turned to start(at the white wire). Your black lead is touching a good ground at the frame or battery (-) post. Next, go to the clutch/brake pedal switch. With the brake set, you should measure 12V on BOTH sides of the switch. If you only have it on one side, then this switch is your problem. Since you said you didn't measure anything on either side of the connector, it appears the fault is between the Ign switch and this switch.


DataPacRat
17.05.2021 2:03:43

So, based on what you described, you did NOT measure 12V on either side of the clutch/brake switch. You need to trace the wire from the Ign switch to this switch. You can disconnect both ends and use the Ohms function of your meter to check the wire itself and verify if it's open(infinite ohms) or OK (very low ohms). more


Netsniper
19.05.2021 2:38:01

Take a few more measurements and let us know what you find. more