Mamarok
23.06.2021 20:49:42
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"thingy" is that a scientific word? more
Good point Mick. I'm pretty sure Stevo explained this in detail, but I can't seem to find it now. [links]
i had the same problem on my 62 xlch, the front ran hotter than the rear, but i didnt have an exhaust leak. i never did figure it out:tour more
I have noticed that my front cylinder runs much hotter than the rear. Exhaust flow feel the same in volume when I hold my hand behind exhaust. Ehaust is hotter on front as well as cyllinder. I have noticed a small leak around the front exhaust manifold where the pipe connects. that I will work on. Any ideas or is it normal for the front to run hotter. I just bought the bike about 2 months ago and just noticed it. Thanks..
Of course, any major component pump, relief valve, cylinder, 4-way valve, filter, etc., could be at fault. And in a highly sophisticated system there are other minor components which could be at fault, but these possibilities are too numerous to be covered in this brief discussion of troubleshooting.
Symptoms
Many of the failures in a hydraulic system show similar symptoms: a gradual or sudden loss of high pressure, resulting in loss of power or loss of speed in the cylinders. The cylinder(s) may not move at all, or if they do they may move too slowly or may stall under light loads. Often the loss of power is accompanied by an increase in pump noise, especially as the pump tries to build up pressure against a load.
See Design Data Sheet 18 for solenoid valve problems. Valves may be tested for leakage by the method given in the Appendix of “Industrial Fluid Power - Volume 1”.
PS. It has been a struggle for me to unlearn, a lot of the things that were said by so called "experts". So that I am not sure all the time, which things in memory are correct. here
[/quote] Originally posted by Triton Thrasher
It is not clear, if you found no valve lash clearance before you re-torqued the head (also base, and rocker boxes, I assume), or after you re-torqued the head. That makes a difference as to whether or not there is a "situation".
Don't know if high-temp paint will do any good, but you could get the inside of the pipes coated. There are various ceramic and other treatments out there that might help. here
I understand you do not for some reason want a blue pipe. But priorites first.
Well, that may seem a little extreme, as certainly all of us have run a engine that was cold, hard. We probably even got away with it due to the amazingly good engine design we have today. However, it's an extremely risky thing to do and can easily result in catastrophic engine failure. ESPECIALLY in highly tuned, built engines. more
Oil will not get to complete operating temperature easily by simply idling, it requires driving around and putting SOME load on the engine. I see people in the pits at races all the time reving their motors to 'warm the engine up'. It won't do any good and is only putting premature wear on the car.
When you first start running your car for the day, make sure to keep the revs low and take it easy for at very least the first 5 or so minutes of driving, longer in extreme cold temperatures. Most importantly, and least obviously - don't trust your coolant gauge to be a good indicator that your engine is fully warmed up. here
Want to learn more about engine oil including which oil is best for your high performance engine? Who better to ask than Ryan Stark of Blackstone Labs one of the largest oil analysis labs in the country. In "The Dirty Secrets of Oil" Ryan shared what matters and does not matter about oil, what the best oil is, and debunked a number of nasty myths drawing on his decades of experience analyzing different oils. This guest lecture, including the full audio recording and transcript are now available with instant access in the TU resource center. Click here to read more [links]