twobitcoins
22.05.2021 1:36:52
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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
Hearing from others that the running lights draw more amperage (although this only makes sense if both tail lights are connected and the side markers are connected), I even 'added' and ran a 2nd grounding wire (thicker gauge) back to the same rear mounting bracket; same thing. [links]
Here's what's also strange, If i attach the positive lead of the multimeter to brown 12V lead wire and the negative terminal of the multimeter to the brown lead wire of the mounted light, I read 12 V. Isn't this strange?
Is this a ground, or some weird short. I thought it might be a short so I bought a whole new light package. Same thing. Please note, the 12 running light brown wire is not hooked to anything else. THe other end of the Y is standing free (not hooked to other rear light; side markers are not hooked up).
Have the chronic issue where brake and turn signal lights work but running lights don't. I believe I have some strange grounding issue. Here's what I've done:
1) With a multimeter, I verified that I'm seeing 12V off of the round to flat adapter plug for my 2004 Silverado.
2) With the wire harness attached to to the flatplug on the truck, I've cut (and since recrimped) the running lights wire and verified 12 volts of the trailer harness.
3) I have a 'Y" for the running lights wire that lead back to each light. I only have one light (back right) wired to the 12V brown running light wire (no side markers are hooked up). I verified I have 12 V off each end of the brown Y ends.
As soon as I connect the brown lead !2V wire to the light (which is mounted and now reattached to the grounding wire), the voltage instantly drops to nothing. [links]
And finally we’re down to testing, ensuring everything works as it should. Plug it into your vehicle, ensure the brake lights, four way flashers, parking lights, signal lights are working correction. If you are having issues, you may have a bad ground, check the condition of the connector and wire at the vehicle or you may have a bad power wire connection.
I have already removed what was left of the old wiring and will be installing everything new except lights. LED lights had been installed on this trailer about a year ago. If any paint work or welding is required, I would recommend doing that first before installing the new wiring.
Once at the end of the bed, insert the wire in the casing, this will be ran to the driver’s side. The green and brown wire goes to the passenger or right side of the vehicle and the yellow and brown goes to the driver or left side of the vehicle. here
To install the ground, this will go on the bed directly to the frame member. Using a self drill screw with a pre-drilled hole, ensure there is enough wire if you are working with a tilt trailer. Install an electrical contact loop and the mounting surface may need to be cleaned. You can even apply some liquid tape to the fastened point and around the wire to prevent any moisture penetration. [links]
Now for the wire and casing, it has been cut longer, especially the casing since there is a few inches of wire coming from the lights. So the casing will help protect the light pigtails too. The reason for the longer wire is that if anything were need to be adjusted, we have an extra 6 inches easily for any modifications. Perhaps you want to add clearance lights, extended the plug length at the tongues end, change out the lights or whatever else may need more wires. Wrap electrical tape segments around this split loop casing too just like before. [links]
Video tutorial on how to wire trailer lights. So here I have an older trailer which needed some work, along with re-wiring the lights. This is a fairly simple setup, no license plate light, or clearance lights. Be sure to check with your local laws in order to determine what is required for a lights. I’ve provide three different wiring diagrams at the end of the video for a better understanding. To make this tutorial easier to understand, I will be flipping the trailer on it’s side so everything is easily viewable. This also makes it much easier to work on, so if you have a smaller trailer and can do this, I would definitely recommend it.