destinbrides
07.06.2021 1:33:58
Sounds like I may have to test the manifolds off of the boat - if I get to that point. [links]
See full version: Outboard leaking water out exhaust manifold
Sounds like I may have to test the manifolds off of the boat - if I get to that point. [links]
So all I can think of for your engine would be to use rubber caps/chair leg tips and hose clamps along with needed rubber plugs or plumbing caps to seal up any small cooling hoses, but the exhaust outlet has me stumped. Since even if you could cap the exhaust outlet of your manifolds, the passage where the water enters the exhaust stream is going to leak air pressure back into the cylinder heads though the exhaust passage in the manifolds. more
With this more thorough explanation I follow you better. I agree that this water line too must be capped off somehow. I must say that the couple of times I've done a pressure test of the manifold I have removed it from the engine and placed it on my work bench to do so. Same with oil coolers. Can it be done on the engine? [links]
I did take two long hardware store bolts that threaded into cylinder heads where the exhaust manifold mounting bolts go. I cut the heads off those two long bolts and tappered the ends so they were like alinement pins. Slide the manifolds on the pins/bolts to hold them while you get the other bolts and gaskets in place. Then remove the pins/bolts (just makes sure they're long enough you can get some vise-grips or channel locks on them after the manifolds are installed) and install the two regular bolts.
I believe on my engine CC wanted the small amout of water from this passage to enter the exhaust Y-pipe to help keep the temps in the Y-pipe lower. Now 90% of the cooling water in my engine leaves through other outlets in the exhaust risers which could be easily capped. But those 1/4" holes that let the water into the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust stream are going to dump all your air pressure during a pressure test. here
In some cases, your engine does not completely burn the fuel in its internal combustion engine. When this fuel mixes together with water from your car’s exhaust system, it comes out as a cloud of black smoke. Like the white smoke, you need to call a mechanic to examine your engine because there might be parts of your car engine that do not work well. A lot of fuel is being channeled to the combustion chamber, but it is not burnt completely. This could be caused by dirty air filters or broken spark plugs. Change these parts and observe the color of your exhaust smoke. If it is still black, inspect your vehicle’s fuel injector. here
Your vehicle’s engine cools down overnight, and water condenses in the car’s exhaust system. As you warm the engine, the water is turned to vapor, which causes the removal of white smoke in your car’s exhaust system. If this white smoke is excess and comes out with a sweet aroma, you need to be concerned.
Some pollutants are produced as your car engine undergoes an internal combustion process. Out of these pollutants, three components stand out. These are carbon dioxide, nitrogen, and water vapor. As the exhaust fumes exit the chamber water vapor and carbon dioxide mix together and as the engine continues to cool down, the condensed water becomes more apparent to people from the outside. In most cases, you will observe small drops of water flowing from the tailpipe. You should not panic when you see this drip because it will stop when your car becomes warm enough.
There are many reasons why water is coming out of your car’s exhaust tailpipe. Some could be an actual problem with your car’s engine, while others do not indicate any significant issue.
Most vehicle owners understand that a vehicle must be inspected and serviced from time to time, as referred to as routine maintenance. For those who don’t, the likelihood of problems that cause the exhaust and engine to go bad is extremely high. If the vehicle is not inspected routinely, small problems can escalate to major problems that are much more expensive to fix. This is also true for vehicles which sit for long periods of time. more
If it is really bad, then a burning smell will fill the interior of the cabin. Either that or it might be a sweet aroma that would indicate an even bigger problem.
This allows the vehicle to be more environmentally friendly while reducing the risk of harming other people in the process. here
The condensation of these gases is more apparent which means that you will be able to see the water dripping from the tailpipe. more
However, as the catalytic converter works to reduce these toxic emissions, there is a small amount of water vapor that forms as a result. This water vapor will form little droplets that will come out from the tailpipe. here
If you live in an environment with cold temperatures, you can expect to see water coming from your exhaust. The components of an engine normally need a little bit of time to let the oil circulate through them in order to cool them down. here
Because of this, water vapor is produced as the heat merges with the cold air. Then you’ll see small water droplets falling from the tailpipe along with a bit of what appears to be white smoke. Just wait a few minutes with the engine running and they should all clear up.
On most pleasureboats, raw water from the engine cooling system is injected into the exhaust gases to reduce noise and cool the exhaust line. But one major requirement of the exhaust system is often little understood: that it should prevent any water from running back into the exhaust manifold. From the manifold, there is direct access to your engine’s valves. And if water gets as far as the valves, they will corrode and stick. If water gets past the valves into the cylinders, the water will rust the piston rings and cylinder walls. If you try to start a diesel engine when there is an appreciable amount of water above the piston, a broken piston and/or cracked cylinder head is almost inevitable. In short, exhaust water that finds its way back into the engine can spell disaster. In theory, that exhaust water simply can’t run backwards into the manifold. The exhaust system is designed to prevent that. In practice it can — and does. Here are four reason why it may: ++*== Backflow through the exhaust pipe. ++*== A rusted-out riser elbow. ++*== Siphoning of raw water. ++*== A waterlogged muffler. Let’s take a look at each of these in turn. ++Backflow== If the exhaust manifold is located a fair distance above the waterline, the raw cooling water is injected into a down-sloping mixer elbow attached to the outlet of the exhaust manifold — see Figure 1. Gravity and exhaust pressure force the mixture of water and gases down the pipe and out of the boat. However, when the engine is not running, there is no exhaust pressure. If the wake from a passing boat slaps the transom, water can be forced back into the exhaust pipe with enough pressure to reach the manifold. Severe pitching while a boat is an anchor can also scoop water into the exhaust outlet and tilt it back along the exhaust. So, if you have this kind of exhaust and you plan to leave your boat at anchor for an extended period, drive a tapered wooden plug into the exhaust outlet to prevent water from entering. Some exhaust pipes have check valves installed. They permit the water to flow only in one direction. And some boats have flappers over the exhaust outlet to achieve much the same effect. But if your boat doesn’t have these handy gadgets, beware. ++Rusted Elbow Riser== If your engine’s exhaust manifold is too low in the boat to allow cooling water to drain out downhill, it will need a riser-type mixer elbow, as shown in Figure 2. Riser elbows usually incorporate a water jacket, so the raw water can cool the riser before it gets injected into the exhaust. This water jacket creates a potentially dangerous condition. If the inner wall rusts and develops a leak, it’s very likely that cooling water will leak into the exhaust manifold. The trouble is that you can’t see the condition of the inner wall without removing the riser elbow. If you want to be safe, have your risers replaced without fail every five years — and sooner if you suspect leakage. Incidentally, an abnormally high dipstick oil level is an indication of severe water leakage into the engine. If you have an engine equipped with exhaust risers, always check the oil level before starting. ++Raw Water Siphon== If the exhaust manifold is at or below the waterline, which is typical on sailboats, a water lift muffler exhaust system is usually used, like the one shown in Figure 3. Here the water-exhaust mixture flows through a down-sloping flexible hose into the muffler. Exhaust gas pressure forces the water and exhaust up the outlet pipe, around a loop that rises well above the waterline, and down to the transom or topsides. That loop is usually high enough to prevent the water from flowing back. But when the engine is stopped, water can continue to flow through the raw water system because the point of water injection is below the waterline, particularly on a heeling sailboat. Looping the raw water piping above the waterline will not stop the flow, because the water will siphon through such a loop and collect in the muffler. Eventually, it will fill the muffler, the muffler inlet hose and finally the manifold. To prevent this siphon flow, a vacuum breaker valve is usually installed at the top of the raw water loop, above the waterline. There is always the possibly, of course, that the vacuum breaker can become clogged. To check it, you usually have to remove the valve. To avoid this, some mechanics replace the valve with a vent line that discharges a stream of water while the engine is running. Inspect the flow from time to time to make sure the vent line is not clogged. ++The Waterlogged Muffler== When you crank your engine to start it, the raw water pump starts discharging water into the exhaust system. Now, say the engine fails to start after several attempts at cranking. What happens to the exhaust water? It will collect in the muffler, of course, and fill it. Then it will fill the inlet hose. After that, it will run over into the exhaust manifold. Every water lift muffler should have a drain valve or plug to permit draining out the water after unsuccessful attempts at starting — or prolonged periods of turning the engine over for any other reason. Study your engine’s exhaust system. Find out what type it is. And get to know the traps and pitfalls that lie hidden in the seemingly simple task of diverting exhaust gases and cooling water overboard.