Lord Juan
01.06.2021 17:17:17
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Normally you let the engine sit for a few days before starting the restoration process. This is the time to soak the piston and cylinder with my mixture of carburetor gum-out and kerosene.
You should be able to turn the flywheel in about one week or ten days. If not, then take off the crankcase cover and soak the connecting rod where it fastens on the crankshaft. You may have to take a plastic-tipped hammer and tap from one side to the other to free it. Then take the rod-cap off after you get it loose, but make sure when you put it back together that you put the shims and cap back just like you took them off for a proper fit. You may have to take a piece of crocus-cloth and polish the crank journal some, to get rust and water marks off so it will be smooth, then put it back together, very carefully. more
First take the spark plug or the igniter out of the head and put the cylinder with the stuck piston and ring in a vertical position. Next go to the automotive store, and buy a can of carburetor gum-out. Take the carburetor gum-out and mix equal amounts of gum-out with the same amount of kerosene. After mixing well the equal parts together, pour into the cylinder until it is full. Add more each day to keep full, as it will seep down past the piston, which will soften the carbon and rust. Be patient, it will free up. It worked for me and my friends.
I am having a problem getting the piston and rod out of a BX-1, 108. Removed the cyl with out much problem but the rod only wants to come about 1/2 way off and that is it. I have cleaned everything with alcohol and Marvel oil using a cut off epoxy brush to get it all cleaner. The bearings have some rust pitting from age and I have a new set of Boca bearings to put in. The pistin - cyl- and rod - ring etc all look really good but those bearings have to come out. I have done this job lots of times and have only once before had this happen. On previous OS 50 it just all of a sudden came out.
Does anyone have a magic potion -- love to have some - besides another glass of Jack Daniels.
If freezing doesn't work. try the oven. It sounds like there might some build-up/and/or wear somewhere in there that's hindering things. A small propane hobby torch with heat focused in/on there might help.
Thanks for your reply's . The conn rod is still on there. I think I'll try some very light oil -- work it in there and then freeze the engine to see what happens. I have nothing to loose. [links]
Is there now a leak from the crankcase to open air, in the cam-follower housing? [links]
I would have just used a press and pushed the pin out of the piston.
You drilled all they way through your crankcase. [sm=lol.gif]
The new hole will not weakening the crankcase, see at the 2 stroke engine with big exhaustport compared to the two holes in crankcase in 4 stroke engine.
Thanks to all folks here who gave advice about to remove the wristpin..
The sleve doesn't have a hole, but you slide it up enough to see the wrist pin through the hole in the crank case. In my opinion, it is best not to take the sleve all the way off as it supports the piston while the sugery is done. Also, if you are not changing the ring, it is best to leave the piton in the sleve to prevent damage to the ring. They snap really easy. [links]
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