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In the case that you’ve removed components like the aft adaptor and delrin sleeve, the first step of this process would be adding the delrin sleeve to the bottom of your propeller. From there, you can take your aft adaptor and slide it into the top of your propeller. Once your assembly is ready and set inside the boat propeller, you’re ready to slide the entire assembly onto the driveshaft! [links]
Before getting to the nuts and bolts of this operation, you must first equip yourself with the tools to get the job done. Now, you’ll need a socket, usually 1 1/16” will do the trick, but if you have a socket set, we recommend having that handy as not all sizes are the same and can vary by manufacturer. Once you figure out your socket size, equip yourself with a 2X4 or 2X6 piece of lumber, this will act as a stopping mechanism to hold the propeller in place and prevent the propeller from spinning when removing the nut. A final piece of equipment you can have at your disposal would be a torque wrench for installing your propeller which we will get to later.
Anglers and boaters alike all know the struggle of changing out a boat propeller. Whether you’re removing the boat propeller for maintenance or replacing the boat propeller for better performance and durability, this process can leave you frustrated and scratching your head. We’ve been there! So, we decided to help everyone out by giving you step by step instructions for removing and installing a boat propeller on your outboard engine.
Once your propeller and assembly are back onto the drive shaft, you’re ready to lock your nut back into place. Hand tighten the nut, spinning it clockwise, to save yourself some time before taking your socket or torque wrench to tighten it further. Be sure to keep your 2X4 nearby for this process to act as a stopping mechanism to hold the boat propeller in place and prevent the boat propeller from spinning when tightening the nut.
Once you have the necessary tools listed above, you’re ready to dive into removing the propeller. Take your socket and fit it onto the nut, use your other hand to hold the 2X4 in place until the propeller makes contact, creating a wedge. Once the block is in place, you can then begin using the socket to remove the propeller, moving counterclockwise.
One reason I attended the Miami bat show was to find out why it is so hard to get torque information when tightening prop nuts. From my recent blog that addressed which nuts goes on in what order, what was missing was a reasonable description as to how tight these nuts should be against the hub of the propeller. Scanning the Internet does not provide accurate information regarding torque values for the various diameter shafts, which seems odd to me. I was determined to find out why that is the case.
That’s it. If the wrench you use is the standard size for the nut you are tightening, this works fine.
He did reference several resources for further investigation. The Machinery's Handbook is a deliciously complex marvel of engineering information, and there is an entire chapter on torque and tension fasteners. One can be quickly lost in the complexity of this subject, but you soon realize it is not a simple subject to conclude general guidelines from. The wrench torque formula is simple enough, but not really: Wrench Torque T = 10 to the (b+m log d). But torque wrenches do not take into account friction, so are only accurate to +/- 25 percent.
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Yamaha is light on torque values for their propeller nuts. As a consequence many Yam owners have a problem with the thrust bearings becoming loose which can allow the propeller to move forward and eat into the lower unit. If you decide to torque the propeller nut to 40 lb-ft then be sure and recheck the torque after the first hours of hard use. Retighten as necessary. From time to time thereafter inspect the propeller to lower unit clearance when you do your "walk around" inspection.
I am installing a new prop on my 2005 4 stroke 225. Do I need to use a torque wrench for final tightening and if so how many ft/lbs.
Studies have proven time and time again that most people (even top notch trained mechanics) will over tighten a fastener. With a torque wrench there can be no doubt that the fastener is tightened correctly. OK, some can screw up even using a torque wrench but hopefully it won't be you. [links]
Torque wrenches are so cheap and widely available that I would not try and service a motor without one. If you do almost any further servicing work yourself then you are going to be in need of a torque wrench. Maybe get two. One for low values and one for medium values. In some applications torque can be real critical. more
And one other point. If the holes for the cotter pin don't line up after the nut is torqued to 40 lb-ft then tighten the nut further as needed to get the holes to align.