aranaahmed1
08.06.2021 3:37:10
Make sure and do the "link and synch" excatly per manual or you'll never get it right. [links]
See full version: Pulling the lower end on a evinrude fastwin
Make sure and do the "link and synch" excatly per manual or you'll never get it right. [links]
The only way to do it right is get it warm, idle in gear/under load. It won't be right at home in the driveway due to lack of back pressure and load.
Either back the rig far enough in the water to cover exhaust and do it while on trailer or tie it to a dock and let it idle.
I have done it both ways.
as far as timing goes. the only way i can get it to somewhat run is by advancing it all the way..otherwise, if i try to retard it. it sneezes quicker and dies.. more
it truly is a "sneeze", it is lean. [links]
i checked all the hoses for leaks. they all seem good..i also just checked compression..all good. more
keep us posted and good luck more
Motor Cowlings : This series of motors underwent numerous styles (probably more than any others) of motor cowlings
Water pumps are basically the same design as still used on all outboard motors. These impellers are a larger diameter than on some of the later unitized lower units, in my book they appear to be able to still function even after many years of usage even after becoming less flexible. The one thing the early units, was that they were made of a pot-metal cast housing that after years of neglect, the normal deteriorated condition it will be well worn & or corroded inside (as shown below). It is then recommended to replace the pump unit with the newer nylon housing with a stainless steel liner version if you have plans on keeping this motor in your stable for some time. here
If you are having problems where the indications point to fuel, double check the fuel lines or fittings/tank for leaks. The older tanks are pressurized (one line using pressure from the intake side of the motor, putting pressure into the tank, forcing fuel up the other line to the motor. These older systems can be repaired using newer aftermarket repair kits. However many boaters convert over to the newer single line tanks operate on a vacuum.
The right photo is an aftermarket adapter (no longer available) with a 3/8" course thread usually placed in the rearward part. This allows the usage of Mercury's Quick-Silver Flushing Device described below. This flush plate is NOT designed to be used when running, but only for flushing . Since these are no longer made, you can fashion one by using the original plate as a sample and soldering/brazing, (even epoxy) a 3/8" course nut onto the outside of it to screw the flushing adapter into. [links]
To remove the lower unit, first drain the oil out of it, by removing the two slotted screws in the lower unit. Do not remove the philips head screw at this point, only the two slotted ones.
Once its open, remove the lower screw on the bracket. You may have to move the shift lever to get the bracket into position to access it. The screw has a slot in it for a screw driver, but I had much better luck with a socket. The bracket is shown in this picture. here
Here are some pictures and a walk through of replacing the lower seal kit in a 1971? 18 hp fastwin. I'm waiting on a shift rod bushing tool from Frank and some scotchgrip 847 from the local omc dealer. I'll finish the walk through when I get the rest of the stuff I need. If anyone has any questions, or suggestions for any other pictures or anything along the way, feel free to comment.
To replace the lower seal kit, first the lower unit has to be removed from the motor.
After the bolts holding the lower unit are removed it should drop free. You may need to use a rubber hammer to knock it loose by hitting the cavitation plate. I also had to soak the shift linkage with penetrating oil to get it to come loose, because there was so much carbon built up on it. [links]
Hang on while I scan the crankshaft page. 😉
So, I have been working on this project off and on since January. I’m now determined to get it wrapped up before get into another project motor. This is my first one of these ’50s 15hp’s. I have been trying to get this motor to run correctly and it has been giving me some trouble in the tuning department. I currently have the powerhead back off of it making sure everything that is supposed to be there in fact is there.
Ben,
If memory serves me well look on the exhaust snoot in front. You will see a small round cavity in front. It has a screen or should have one to filter out the weeds. Be very careful taking out the exhaust bolts. They are good at breaking because they get stuck. If you have a small torch heat the area where the screws go into the block. Also give the screw heads a good hard tap, this helps break the screws loose. Be patient please. It has an inner & outer plates. The inner plate keeps the exhaust gasses going down into the leg to the outlet. The next plate is the cover you see. The pump sends water up the waterpipe & into the exhaust cover at the bottom & into the water jacket around the cylinders then out the motor on the bottom. This water outlet now cools the hot exhaust gasses & exits the outboard. When you have the covers off stick a small screwdriver into the water flow cavities to see if the passages are clear & will flow thru the motor. The cylinders water jackets hold crud on the aluminum & restrict cooling. Scrape off all you can before digging into the aluminum. I bet you get mucho off. Put a piece of wet & dry tapped to a flat surface like thick glass do a figure 8 with the part until it is clean & no pits. If you have pits use a gasket sealer to not have any leaks, use it very lightly but fully. If you take your time with the new gaskets & surfacing all your leaks will go away. Once you get the inner stainless steel cover very clean, hold it up to some light & look for pin holes in the metal. If the water gets inside the motor it will destroy the rods, crankshaft & rings with rust so be so careful replacing the exhaust covers & gaskets please.
I hope this helps you get back on the water soon.
Jeff [links]
Dave, The replacement bolts I used were all 1/4-20 x3/4″ which matched the originals in length exactly as I checked that prior to install.
Billw I assumed the nos with the asbestos would have been hard originally so never considered they would be too non-compliant to seal. I guess I could try to make one from Felpro that is a little softer to match the profile. I made need to do that anyway as one of the gaskets will likely break when I pull the exhaust cover back off.
Bob I used Phillips head for my replacement bolts because I couldn’t get a hex head and socket which was my original plan so I could check the torque. Maybe I’ll switch all the others to Phillips head and try a socket adapter and torque wrench as you suggest. Anytime I have tried using a torque wrench on a slotted bolt I always end up with a new scar!! here
is your bolts bottoming out . [links]
Thank you all for help and ideas.
1954 Johnson CD-11
1956 Johnson RD-18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1959 Johnson QD-20
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18 more
Thanks again for all the help and ideas. [links]