[Elanthius]

An overheated boat motor will put a damper on all of your plans and a dip into your pocket. One of those hidden parts that can quickly lead to trouble if gone unchecked is your outboard motor’s water pump . To avoid serious engine problems, the impeller must operate at peak performance. Over time its blades can become worn or cracked. That’s when it’s good to know that Wholesale Marine carries a full line of dependable Johnson impellers and can flat rate ship them out to you the same day.

[sujanacast]

Impellers are designed with rubber vanes that circulate around a hub inside the water pump. To keep your outboard from overheating, these vanes flex to draw water into and through your motor to cool it down. Vanes wear out for several reasons. Operating your boat in silty or sandy conditions will cause grit to draw in and around the impeller, and wear the vanes down. Long storage periods in dry dock allows the rubber vanes to crack and become rigid. more

[andika]

One way to keep your outboard’s impeller operating optimally is to always use a set of water muffs on your gearcase when dry idling. This action will allow water to continue to circulate throughout your system, keeping your impeller, and more importantly your motor, safe. Johnson impeller s are built to last and are economically priced to keep up with your motor’s recommended replacement schedule, typically every 100 hours of operation or when sitting in storage for several seasons.

[leryn17]

All About Impellers here

[niekie]

It seems that the oil leakage is not coming from where the propshaft enters the rear housing but the leakage seems to be coming from deep within the lower housing cavity. Are there prop seals anywhere besides where the propeller meets the propshaft housing? If not, then is the leakage from the shift rod seal or the driveshaft seal? there are good o-ring washers in both the lower & upper screws where the lower unit oil is installed. Thanks for any info. here

[Mr Nice]

Is there any gear lube leakage around the propshaft seal?At best it may be just fill and vent screw seals.Other possibilities are driveshaft seal and the shift rod seal.If you wanted to just have the entire lower unit resealed with all new it would probably be at or near $250 for parts and labor.Then if you do that ,might as well install a new watewrpump as long as the unit is dropped.<br /><br />You can narrow your leak down by performing a pressure and vacuum leak test.If it is just the fill and vent seals it will save you some coin.

[laczoka]

Re: 1985 evinrude-70 hp- water in lower unit

[EddBin]

the oil was coming out of the prop and leaving an oily stain down the skeg. i changed the water pump last fall so it should be ok. where can i get the pump to pressure test the lower unit? ob thanks for your reply.

[protein87]

Re: 1985 evinrude-70 hp- water in lower unit more

[morpheus]

Smear a bit of gasket sealer onto the threads of the four studs, place the washers over the studs and thread the nuts onto them. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench to between 70 and 80 inch-pounds.

[tissemand]

Spread a thin coating of gasket sealer onto both sides of the new wear plate gasket and position the gasket atop the lower unit. Settle the new impeller plate onto the top of the wear plate gasket. Push the drive pin back into its location on the driveshaft. Slide the new impeller into place, turning the driveshaft, as necessary, to move it past the drive pin, and settle it onto the plate. [links]

[rodrick3nie]

1/4-inch open-end wrench or 1/4-inch socket

[madtrade]

Discard the impeller -- the pump replacement kit contains a replacement impeller. Pull the impeller drive pin out of the driveshaft with a pair of needle-nose pliers. more

[Pascual99]

Pull the impeller plate and wear plate gasket from the lower unit and discard them, or clean them up as spares. Remove and discard the driveshaft seal, the water tube grommet and the O-ring. here

[alex_l]

Shift the motor into "Neutral." Remove the lower engine cover and loosen the shift rod lock-nut, so that you can loosen the turnbuckle on the shift rod. Take note of the number of turns of the turnbuckle needed to disconnect the shift rod, to ensure proper adjustment upon reassembly. Locate the three bolts -- on each side of the outboard -- that hold the lower unit to the motor and use an adjustable wrench remove them. Pull straight down on the lower unit to separate it from the motor.

[ponci]

With that done, have someone turn over the motor while you do a compression test on each cylinder, compression should be within 10% of each other on all cylinders, if you have one that is drastically different then you have an issue. [links]

[kupan787]

Unlikely you can supply the volume of water thru a tapped fitting that would be required to flush the powerhead. Impellers are usually 'shimmed' to proper tolerance, and aren't really sacrificial. I used one in Alaska glacial rivers for 3 years (about the most abrasive condition there is), and added a single shim one time. Before doing carbs, I'd try a "Dunk" treatment .

[snowball]

Re: 1979 johnson 70 hp back to life advice with Jet lower unit [links]

[fuzeman]

So, when you come back on the forum a few weeks from now asking why your motor overheats all the time, then you will have your own answer "because I ran it dry and now a piece of the impeller is blocking a water passage". here

[joechip]

Re: 1979 johnson 70 hp back to life advice with Jet lower unit more

[Daniel]

Re: 1979 johnson 70 hp back to life advice with Jet lower unit more