See full version: How to Remove a Steering Cable from a Johnson Outboard
Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the washer-head bolt in the steering link rod fastener. The washer-head bolt is located on top of the steering link rod fastener at the end of the steering cable, attached to the engine's tilt tube. more
Remove the locknut--a self-locking nut with a nylon insert--from the end of the washer-head bolt. The locknut is nylon and located beneath the steering link rod fastener. One flat washer, between the nut and the steering link rod fastener, may come off with the nut. If it does not, slip it off the end of the washer-head bolt.
If you plan to remove the steering cable from your Johnson outboard, remember that the steering cable for an outboard that was built after 1980 is connected to the motor's tilt tube by a screw, regardless of the name on the motor. Whether you need to remove the cable as part of your winter storage or you want to remove the cable because you want to add a hydraulic system to your Johnson, the procedure is straightforward and consumer friendly. here
Lift the washer-head bolt free from the steering link rod fastener and remove the flat washer from the bolt. Stash the washer-head bolt, the locknut and the washers in a pocket for later retrieval and storage.
Inspect the system for broken or damaged pulleys before you replace the cable. If replacing a pulley, or just remounting a pulley that's pulled away from its correct position, fixes the problem, you can save the cost of a new cable. more
Spray carburetor cleaner into the now-empty tilt tube and clean the interior with a twisted wire brush that looks similar to a bottle brush.
Use an adjustable wrench to remove the 9/16-inch nut that connects the steering cable to the steering rod link---the drag link---on the starboard,the right side, as you face forward in the boat, of the tilt tube or steering tube, the hollow tube that acts as a hinge for the motor to tilt up and down. Spray the inside of the tube, and the steering cable that passes through the tube, with carburetor cleaner to break down the grease and particulates that may hinder your removal of the steering cable. here
Knock the cable out of the steering tube with a punch and a hammer. Pull the cable free of the motor and forward until you reach the "helm," or the steering gear box. Use common pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin that connects the old cable to the helm.
Knock the cable out of the steering tube with a punch and a hammer. Pull the cable free of the motor and forward until you reach the "helm," or the steering gear box. Use common pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin that connects the old cable to the helm. [links]
Use an adjustable wrench to remove the 9/16-inch nut that connects the steering cable to the steering rod link---the drag link---on the starboard,the right side, as you face forward in the boat, of the tilt tube or steering tube, the hollow tube that acts as a hinge for the motor to tilt up and down. Spray the inside of the tube, and the steering cable that passes through the tube, with carburetor cleaner to break down the grease and particulates that may hinder your removal of the steering cable. here
Spray carburetor cleaner into the now-empty tilt tube and clean the interior with a twisted wire brush that looks similar to a bottle brush. [links]
Changing a boat's steering cable can be aggravating, because the cable passes through the motor's tilt tube on the final leg of its journey to your outboard motor. The tilt tube is hollow, with two open ends. This means that things like salt residue, if you boat in salt water, and hardened grease will do everything they can to keep you from removing the cable from the tube. Once you surmount that obstacle, the cable replacement should move apace. more
Inspect the system for broken or damaged pulleys before you replace the cable. If replacing a pulley, or just remounting a pulley that's pulled away from its correct position, fixes the problem, you can save the cost of a new cable. more
I found that product and installed it with no further issues. On my current boat,(non-hydralic steering) since 1997, that unit HAS been on it as well as the ORIGINAL CABLE.
In the real world, at least mine, my cables last 25+ years (including the old boat), and still works great. Should I get another boat, this fitting is coming off and going on the next one. [links]
My prior boat, the steering seized up like yours. more
Your issues (repairing two currently), could they be from the owners lack of maintainance? Lube it once every 3 years? Of course its going to goo up just from the old grease. (I can't see your current work projects and can't see specificially what the issue is).
Lots of penetrating oil (not WD40) and using a block of wood and smacking the frozen part BACK AND FORTH is the key. A little bit of movement will eventually turn into a lot of movement. more
I subsequently transferred it to my current boat which is a 1997, salt water/brackish water use. It gets a shot of yamaha grease after every use. It is still as smooth as in 1997. It keeps the salt water/water out, thus no rust. [links]