See full version: Where is the bilge pump on Fundeck GS-201
The automatic on/off for the bilge pump on my '99 Fundeck GS-201 no longer works, although the pump runs fine when turned on manually with the switch. A couple years ago I had it serviced for the same reason and the tech said he repaired/adjusted the float and a new pump wasn't needed. It worked for about 1 year.
I would prefer to replace the pump with float assembly this time but I don't know where it's located. Can you tell how I can get to it and if you have any suggestions for replacing the pump or cleaning/repairing the float again? Any recommendations for a reliable replacement? Thanks.
Following up, I checked the inline fuse and sure enough it was blown. The blown fuse was a 4 amp fuse and I have no idea if that's the correct size fuse for this small pump. Any idea of what size fuse might be appropriate?
Either way, I have the dropping and raising of the top down to a science so i bet replacing the the plastic fittings will make it even smoother
@dhcody, you can certainly change out the hardware from the plastic ones to the stainless steel hardware however, in my experience with a friend with a similar boat but with the SS hardware, the SS isn't any easier. They use similar pins with flip locks, etc and are about $6-8 per piece of hardware. You may be able to find the pins you've mentioned (http://www.iboats.com/Bimini-Top-Mounts-Fittings/dm/cart_id.406299549--session_id.437397919--view_id.693690)
I drive from Nashville to Destin at least 1 time a year and the aluminum frame will not handle that type of long term stress so I had to go steel. I will also remove the canopy from now on as well to reduce the amount of wind resistance on the frame. here
I replaced my aluminum frame with a stainless steel one at the end of last season. I got it through my Hurricane dealer who got it from the Hurricane Manufacturer. It was almost completely plug n play. I took the canopy off theold one and it fit perfect on the new one. All the existing hardware on the boat lined up fine. The frame came pre-wired and came with a new light on the top of the bimini. All i had to do was cut the 2 pronged connector off the old bimini and slice it on the new bimini . here
Pulling wires and cables through boats in order to install marine electronics can be a pain. Especially if the rigging tube through which the cable has to go is more crowded than a commuter rail car at rush hour. After all, the tube is likely already housing control and steering cables, hydraulic lines, transducer cables and wires of all description. (Not to mention making a bend or two. ) [links]
Baby powder—talcum powder--provides lubrication without making a greasy mess of your wiring. It allows wire and cables coated with it to slide more easily past obstructions and around corners. Simply fill your palm with powder and then pull your cable through your hand before you pull it through the boat.
Bonus Tip: Use electricians tape to streamline connectors. By making a quasi-bullet shape, as shown, you make it easier for the connector to pass through a crowded rigging tube. This also protects the contacts of the connector.
Bonus Tip 2! Always pull a " pull wire" or "messenger" through with your cable or hose or wire. You can see the well-aged messenger taped to the wire in the picture.( I first ran it about 12 years ago and have used it numerous times since) Make it long enough so that you can always have access to both ends and wont loose it if you use it: it needs to be twice as long as the run it serves. When done, just coil the ends and secure them to the wire bundle. Use nylon, polyester or other non-organic line.
Hello, I have a 1988 Wellcraft 20 Fisherman with a Force 120 outboard. I have had it a few months and have been attempting to get it into better shape. The last time I took it out after running for about half an hour at WOT the engine starting surging and seemed like to me and a friend with me that it was a fuel issue. I replaced the primer bulb and the feeder fuel lines (not the ones under deck yet - those are next) and replaced the fuel/water separator and the in line filter in front of the carburetors. When I emptied the fuel/water separator while doing all this I found some debris that was trapped by the filter. See attached picture. I am considering removing the fuel pick up tube from the tank to see if there is a screen and if the screen has some blockage. The tank is plastic and I do not know if it is original or not. My main question is that I cannot tell from looking at it if the aluminum looking elbow on the top of the pick up tube is all one piece that threads directly into the plastic tank or if there is some sort of pass through bulk head or something. I am a little afraid of putting a lot of force on the wrong part or place and breaking the tank. I was wondering if anyone here has seen something similar to the attached pictures and can give me some advice on how to remove. Do I just disconnect the fuel line hose and turn that whole metal piece including the fuel shutoff value counter clockwise to unscrew it from the plastic tank?
Looking at it I wonder if there could be a nut on the inside that you access through the fuel sender hole. here
Re: how to remove fuel pick up tube from plastic tank