[thekremlin]

While some hairline cracks in the hull paint are visible, it seems almost impossible that they would allow so much water to come in so quickly. * [links]

[peter]

thanks in advance for your advice

[rokh]

Pictures of the boat and the trailer would help us figure out what method might be best. [links]

[darrob]

I was told by my uncle who did the restoration, that he caulked between the planks (i believe with 5200), then he painted the bottom with some form of epoxy (although I cannot find receipts for such a material), and then coated with Old Salem copper racing paint.* here

[Insti]

If you can access the area easily and the leak is on a flat spot you can screw a plywood patch down with something like Lifecaulk on it.

[Sabunir]

I'd say a mix of both. For big leaks (though those should perhaps had been fixed in other ways before the boat was put in the water) the larger pieces may do a better job, but the fine stuff takes care of the small leaks, as well as working their way in-between the larger sawdusts.

[Kristen8Fuller]

The sawdust trick starts with the right tool, which is a cup affixed to a stick. It will be filled with "Mill Pond Mix" - sawdust.

[ploum]

The wire idea is just so you can locate the seam on the outside of the boat while swimming underwater. It works. [links]

[eche|on]

In the bilges, behind cupboard doors, at the bottom of the chain locker or under the bunks; it’s a simple fact that wooden boats contain numerous small, often isolated areas with poor ventilation that are likely to trap moisture. Whenever that happens, dry rot is likely to develop.

[kiba]

When that happens, epoxy is the perfect solution. Not only does it restore the structural integrity of the material but it also totally replaces the water, forming a barrier against dry rot happening again in the future. In this respect, a dry rot repair made with epoxy can genuinely be ‘better than new’.

[annedubois]

It’s no wonder, then, that repairing small areas of dry rot is possibly the most common wooden boat repair.

[Pubulis01]

This preparation of the timbers to provide a firm surface for the caulk to adhere to is the most important step in achieving a dry bilge. Caulk will stick to CPES treated timber far better than it possibly can to wood alone. more

[frott]

If the finish is to be bright, and who doesn’t like to show off a wooden boat, apply Epifanes varnish as described in the varnishing notes here.

[chr15m]

The use of a water based paint stripper is highly recommended, augmented by the modern Tungsten Carbide tipped pull operation paint strippers, such as those sold by Bahco and Sandvic. more

[sizewraps]

The alternative to replacing all of the planking is to repair it and re caulk instead, a procedure that is outlined below, caulking wooden boat: