Cab1945
19.06.2021 19:46:22
A cottage cheese or yogurt container can make a nice bath for a shoot-through transducer if you don't have PVC pipe handy.
See full version: Install A Transducer Without Holes Below The Waterline
A cottage cheese or yogurt container can make a nice bath for a shoot-through transducer if you don't have PVC pipe handy.
There are alternatives to drilling a hole in your bottom for a transducer. Transom-mount transducers are common on smaller boats, but the mounting screw holes can allow water in, causing rot in the transom core. Even careful sealing will eventually fail because of the stress of running on plane. A better option uses a piece of "plastic wood" such as structural grade Starboard as a mounting point. Cut a piece long enough to extend from the bottom of the transom to a point at least six inches above the waterline, and several inches wider than the mount. Thru-bolt it to the transom using four stainless bolts. All holes should be well above the waterline and fit the bolts snugly. Dry fit everything, carefully following depth finder instructions, to be sure you've got the right fit and positioning. more
Installing a transom-mounted transducer on a piece of Starboard that is thru-bolted above the waterline prevents transom rot from occurring.
Fit a piece of plastic pipe to the hull where you want the transducer mounted. Put a wire brush on your drill and clean/ roughen the hull where the pipe will attach. Mount the transducer in the pipe in the same orientation you'd have it if it were hanging off the transom. Seal the mounting holes with the 5200. Leave a half-inch or so between transducer and hull.
If the bottom of your hull is solid fiberglass, meaning not cored, you can shoot through the hull by mounting a transducer inside the boat. I'm not a fan of epoxying a transducer directly to the inside of the hull, although it's definitely the easiest. I prefer to mount the transducer in a plastic pipe, then fix the pipe to the hull. here
Seal the transom core inside the bolt holes with epoxy resin. Use a syringe to inject the resin into the hole and a Q-tip or toothbrush to spread it around inside. Do this immediately before you insert the bolts. Seal and "glue" the board to the transom with 3M 5200 applied over the back of the board. The bottom edge of the board should be approximately 1/4- inch above the bottom of the boat and far enough above the bottom of the hull to avoid turbulence. Taper the bottom edge of the board, making it parallel to the surface of the water when running on plane. Mounting screw holes in the board now shouldn't puncture the transom; you'll have room for mistakes and the ability to add different transducers later. more
Ayuh. As long as you set up your clamping procedure before you start.
I doubt there's Any difference that amounts to anything.
Re: pl or epoxy to attach transom to outer fiberglass skin? more
Just finished my transom with PL..used a notched trowel..stuck together..screwed it..it sat for 1 week..its beautiful..have 2 layers resin w/ CM..ready to go..i approve [links]
Let’s talk about plywood before actually cutting any. Most transoms are on the order of one and a half inches thick. If there is any curve to the transom, this thickness is best made up of two three-quarter inch or three half inch thick layers of plywood. more
As long as there are no places for water to reach the plywood, things are fine. But, it the case of an Inboard/Outboard installation, a big hole is cut through the transom. In other cases, holes are drilled to mount swim ladders, transducers or other accessories. When the sealant fails around these holes, water begins to leak into the plywood core.
All edges of any openings should be completely sealed with epoxy. This will prevent any water from reaching the plywood core. In the case of fasteners, it is a good idea to drill the holes oversize, fill them with epoxy/filler and then re-drill the holes to the proper size. This way any fastener hole is drilled through solid epoxy and the plywood is protected from any water leaks.
Final Steps
If the boat is an I/O model, you will need to cut out the opening for the stern drive as well as the necessary mounting holes. Even an outboard installation may require drilling holes in the new transom. Unless you want to repeat this project in the future, you will need to take some care with these holes.
Seal any space or gaps with expanding foam insulation, but make sure to use the low-expanding foam formulated specifically for windows and doors (otherwise the foam may bow out the jamb and interfere with door operation). [links]
Pry off the brick molding.
Apply sealant to the subfloor. [links]
The jambs are attached at the sides with metal hardware. here
Ensure the door is square and level. [links]