Loki
18.05.2021 20:12:14
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The gear is straight cut so you can slide it straight into the 2 other gears it mates to. The whine you hear in reverse that gets louder and higher pitched as you go faster? That is from straight cut teeth on the gears. Straight teeth whine like a Banshee. Helical or semi-helical teeth have a slight twist to them, as on all the forward gears in the 020. This means they run quietly, but due to the design, there is some parasitic loss. Some of the engine power is being eaten up in the trans, and not making it to the wheels. This is why when you hear a race car it whines horribly bad. The gears are straight cut and suffer no parasitic loss but they make noise. Racers don't care about noise but do care about getting every horse from the engine to the ground. Your Mom buying a new Golf does care about the noise, and isn't worried about a small parasitic loss. Thus, stock trans have nice quiet gears, race trans are loud.
Now you know why oil can affect shifting. it directly affects the friction between the brass ring and the smooth gear face. The more quickly friction is generated - the faster the gear matches shaft speeds and the less likely you are to grind it. [links]
4th gear selected. Notice the sleeve has moved up and is partially covering 4th gear. It is also partially covering the sync hub. That is your connection between the gear and the shaft, that is how it is selected. All power will pass from the hub, into the sleeve, from the sleeve and into the gear. so when you beat up on the trans, that sleeve is just one of many parts holding it all together :) here
If you beat the tops of those small teeth up (and the angled tips of the splines inside the sliding sleeve), you run a greater chance of them NOT sliding smoothly past each other, even when rolling and driving. If that happens you can usually let off the shifter, try the gear again, and it will likely drop right in as the sleeve slides over the gear. [links]
This will force that gear to either speed up or slow down. but it is going to be forced to spin at the same RPM that the shaft (and hub, keys, springs, and sync ring) are spinning at. When it matches that shaft speed, it is no longer using the needle bearing it is on, by the way. more
Here is a pic showing the sync keys (the dull powdery coating is how they come from VW). Notice the bump in the middle of the key. this bump fits into the detent spots inside the sliding sleeve above.
After the cylinders have been honed, don’t forget to scrub them out with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all honing and metallic debris. This is an often overlooked step that can ruin a new set of rings in a hurry.
If you are installing dry sleeves in a block to increase displacement, you can remove only so much metal before you run out of block to support the larger cylinder sleeves. One way to overcome this limit is to do a wet sleeve conversion. The existing cylinders are machined away, and wet sleeves are installed in their place. Installation involves extensive modifications to the block and requires precise CNC machining so it can accept wet sleeves, but the results are worth it. Because the coolant is in direct contact with the outside of the sleeve, wet sleeves can typically handle much higher horsepower and heat loads. Consequently, you gain increased strength and reliability as well as more displacement. Wet sleeve conversion kits are available for certain late-model import engines as well as domestic V8s.
Damaged and worn cast iron and aluminum engine blocks have long been repaired using dry sleeves. Installing a repair sleeve can often save the block if a cylinder has excessive taper wear, or is cracked, scored or otherwise damaged, and boring out the damaged cylinder. Likewise, to restore the cylinders to like-new dimensions, all the cylinders in the block can be re-sleeved if all of the cylinders are heavily worn.
Use the type of seal lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Using the wrong type of lubricant may cause the seal to swell, preventing the liner from fitting properly.
One supplier said they have changed their thinking about interference fit altogether on some aluminum engine applications. The sleeves can be installed with minimal interference (.0005˝ to .001˝) and locked in place with anaerobic sealer. A sealer such as Loctite 518 is applied to the bottom third of the cylinder to keep it in place and to prevent oil from migrating up between the bottom end of the sleeve and the block. Anything that gets between the sleeve and block (be it oil, carbon deposits or even air) can interfere with good heat transfer.
Something else to keep in mind is that if you are sleeving only one damaged cylinder in a block to repair it, the sleeve may distort the adjacent cylinders somewhat – especially if you use a lot of interference fit. The result may be ring sealing problems, compression losses and blowby in the adjacent cylinders. more
Prepare threads and pressed surfaces
A cutaway of a thread-together system in a press fit frame shell [links]
Bicycles that use a press fit bottom bracket system have no internal threading in the frame shell. These designs work by pressing in a non-threaded cup. The “thread-thru” or “thread-together” systems are an alternate system designed for the press fit frame.
Use a bottom bracket press such as the BBP-1.2 to press in the non-drive-side cup first. Substitute a headset press or similar tool if a bottom bracket press is not available.
Engage the appropriate tool on the drive side cup and loosen counter-clockwise. If the non-drive side cup also turns, you may need to use a second tool to hold it stationary. more
The remaining cup is pressed into the non-drive side of the frame shell. It can removed similar to a press fit bottom bracket cup. See Bottom Bracket Tool Selection: Press Fit.