edwinc112
20.05.2021 11:42:32
The number one horror story on freshwater boats that have seen salt . must be the engine. And it's true: the wrong kind of engine can be a disaster in saltwater. Or actually: the wrong type of cooling system. more
See full version: How to Convert your Freshwater Boat for Saltwater Use
The number one horror story on freshwater boats that have seen salt . must be the engine. And it's true: the wrong kind of engine can be a disaster in saltwater. Or actually: the wrong type of cooling system. more
There are three cooling systems available: here
If there's one takeaway from this article, it should be to avoid I/O engines with raw water cooling as much as possible for saltwater use. more
How to fix galvanic corrosion? Simple: you add another metal to the mix, one that corrodes more quickly than the others. This piece of metal is called the sacrificial anode. Sacrificial because . well, it get's sacrificed. It takes the proverbial hit, ensuring other (important) metal parts won't corrode. Make sure to change the anode once half of it is gone due to corrosion. more
My boat lives on a dry stack. It's raw water cooled so unlike a majority of boat wonders around here I DO choose to flush my engine after use. I do it while its still sitting on the water so the engines still hot, and the thermstat will open allowing a more complete flush. I looked into installing a series of plumbing fittings and taps upstream of the powersteering cooler which would allow a fresh water hose to be connected and the sea water shut off. In the end I went away from the idea and now I just tilt the drive up, slip a set of flush muffs on while standing on the swim platform, trim drive down, run engine for about ten minutes (I hold my hand on the thermostat housing and feel for two complete opening cycles). Job done. Yes, it is a it of faffing around at the end of each trip, but I figure its worth it in the long run? I also added an extension piece of hose to my muffs which allow me to connect a Salt-away dispenser to the process, which I can turn on and off from above water line.
Of course, the big variable here is whether or not you are able to reach over the back and fit the muffs to your drive?
I just the flush kits off of my engines as I converted to closed cooling.
It is a boat slip. I could probably get access to use the muffs.
You will need to have the fresh water flush adapter/kit on your engine . . . probably need the serial number, etc to get the right thing. here
2. Replace reservoir. Always make sure the O-ring is seated on the groove on top of the reservoir before replacing. here
Recommended product for first-time user: SALT-AWAY KIT here
7. Turn Salt-Away Mixing Unit valve to 'Salt-Away' position. Some engines are required to warm up first to open water jackets. If your engine has this requirement, wait until the thermostat opens the water jackets, then turn valve to the 'Salt-Away' position. This position mixes Salt-Away and water to the correct ratio of Salt-Away to water for easily removing salt.
OUTBOARD ENGINE FLUSH
3. Connect garden hose to Salt-Away Mixing Unit. Mixing Unit is in 'off' position. [links]
I've been reading about Lehr propane outboards, and the folks who have bought them all seem pretty happy with them. except one guy on my dock.
About these motors, except! Any time you get anything mechanical that is a small production item, with very few dealers, service is always a nightmare. And the same with parts. No matter how well designed and engineered. No matter how good the quality control. Service and parts are always hard to come by.
Kloudie, that's interesting about Parsun. I heard from a dealer at the Atlantic City Boat Show this spring that they were Yamaha motors. And I heard elsewhere that they were Tohatsu. Hopefully the Parsun manufacturing has good quality control - sometimes Chinese companies do not. more