See full version: Sailboat fresh water system accumulator tank
The flow of water from a JABSCO 'PAR-MAX' multi-diaphragm pump appears smooth, but actually pulsates rapidly. The pump may be noisy if mounted on a light, unsupported surface - particularly if metallic pipework is used. A solid, non-resonant mounting surface, and the use of plastic pipework, will suppress the noise.
JABSCO 'Par Max' multi-diaphragm pumps are light, compact, quiet and efficient. They maintain the high reputation of the earlier PAR diaphragm pump range for reliability.
An accumulator tank is an important part of any pressure-controlled water system. Fitted close to the pump discharge, it acts as a pressure buffer, absorbing flow from the pump when demand is low, and smoothing the outlet pressure. By removing the need for the pump to run immediately an outlet is opened, it extends pump life and reduces battery drain. The larger the accumulator tank, the less often the pump has to start. [links]
For a recommendation for a plastic pipework system, or for larger systems (i.e. - more than 6 outlets), visit Cleghorn Waring. more
Copper tubing (usually 3/8-inch diameter) is often used for both hot and cold water lines on boats. This tubing comes in coils which are unrolled to the desired length. Because it is flexible, few elbows or other joints are necessary. The tubing can be bent around gentle curves to reach almost any part of the boat. Compression fittings allow joining copper tubing to conventional faucets and other plumbing fixtures. [links]
Although not required, taste and odor filters go a long way toward removing the "tanky" taste of boat water. Filters intended for household service are satisfactory if they are made of non- corrosive plastic. A "crud" filter intended to remove tank sediment and other large objects should be installed just past the accumulator tank. A taste and odor filter should be installed at the galley sink faucet.
The faucet is installed behind or beside the sink so that water from the spigot goes into the sink. Two holes in the counter top are usually necessary: one for the water; and the other for the electrical wires. Some faucets use one large hole for both. Screws hold the base plate in place. Most faucets have a rubber gasket to keep water splashed on the counter top from dripping into the counter beneath the sink. here
Because pressure is always on the system, flexible plastic tubing is not recommended. Leaks at connections due to loose hose clamps are all too common with plastic tubing. It's much better to plumb a pressure system with plastic piping like that used in home construction. more
Pumps that come with dedicated systems are designed for in- line installation in plastic tubing. They are not self-priming, so must be installed below the bottom of the water tank. Cut the tubing close to the tank and install the pump using stainless-steel hose clamps on the inlet and outlet barbs.
Sediment, taste and odor filters do not purify water. They are intended only to improve the quality of safe drinking water from municipal water systems. These filters do not remove harmful bacteria that cause disease. Special bacteriostatic filters are available for boats voyaging to areas with questionable water supplies. here
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The polyvinyl (PVC) plumbing I pulled out of the boat’s darkest recesses was truly disgusting. Black growth coated its insides and a swampy smell wafted upward when I cut into it. Algae flourishes in the light that passes through clear PVC tubing, and even though regular shots of chlorine will kill the algae, it won’t get rid of the residue. So I knew I didn’t want to replace the old PVC tubing with more of the same. The only realistic alternative is to use semi-rigid tubing with quick-fit connectors. If you’re a real traditionalist, you could use copper plumbing with compression fittings, though I don’t know why you’d bother.
There is nothing to stop you from walking into your local hardware store, buying one of the vast array of domestic faucets on display, and adapting it to fit your boat’s system. You could also buy one of the more limited range of faucets and mixers specifically designed for marine or RV use—and pay from $25 to $150 or more. I’m a fan of pullout showerhead-style mixers in both the galley and head, because they’re useful for cleaning up after spills and accidents. here
If your water tank has sprung a leak, you’ll be forced to choose between repairing or replacing it. A repair makes sense only if the leak is easily located and the tank is otherwise in good shape. I once had a leaking 100-gallon stainless steel tank professionally repaired and pressure-tested. It cost me nearly as much money as a new polyethylene tank would have—and because it was under the cabin sole, I had to remove half the saloon furniture before I could get it out. Six months later, that 25-year-old tank sprang another leak along one of the recently repaired seams, and I kicked myself for not having replaced the cursed thing.
If you decide to replace your existing tank or add another one, you need to choose the tank material carefully. [links]
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express here
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
I will say that the pump cycle time, although MUCH improved, is still shorter than I expected. Maybe I need to adjust the pressure in the air bladder, or maybe it's just because I have the high-flow 4 GPM pump. But for anybody considering one of these, I'd recommend getting the largest tank that will fit in your engine room and budget.
Jabsco claims that their tank provides:
• Smoother and More Even Flow
• Quieter Water System
• Better Temperature Control
• Longer Pump Life
• Lower Battery Drain
you both make good points. Handy, I agree that the pump should be much quieter. Heck, that AC pump puts a lot more water out there than the fresh water. more