Water Intrusion can commonly be categorized into 3 separate and distinct categories; Reversion, Ingestion, and condensation.
See full version: What is Water Ingestion with Marine Engines; Background and How to Check
Water Intrusion can commonly be categorized into 3 separate and distinct categories; Reversion, Ingestion, and condensation.
3. Run the engine as outlined in the extended idle test. [links]
Interpreting Results . NOTE: A suction device with a rubber hose attached to the end can be used to suck the water from the manifold and discharge it into a container. [links]
Excessive overheating can ruin your engine.
If your engine is overheating turn it off and do not run it until you have fixed the problem.
Overheating is a problem which can be diagnosed through a process of elimination. The best way to tackle such a problem is to first consider the obvious.
For example, if you have just run aground on a sand bar and now you are overheating, chances are good you have sucked up some sand and possibly ruined your water pump impellar. Not only will you have to rebuild your water pump but you might have to backflush the cooling system to remove the sand.
Overheating problems in an inboard-outboard motor, also called a "stern-drive," happen as a result of component failure somewhere in the cooling system. One part might be responsible, or a number of parts can contribute to the overheating problem. Even mild overheating can cause serious damage to expensive engine components. Upon any sign of overheating, a boat owner should investigate the root cause of any abnormally high temperatures.
The inboard-outboard cylinder head can accumulate large carbon deposits in the combustion chamber head, valve surfaces, around the exhaust valve stem and in the exhaust ports. The heavy accumulations form a thick barrier that resists normal heat dispensation, reducing the combustion chamber volume and absorbing and holding heat after ignition. De-carbonizing sprays use strong solvents, which when injected into the fuel intake system break up and dislodge the carbon.
Overheating of the inboard-outboard motor at the raw water intake ports on the lower unit can block off the cooling water to the engine. When the small intake ports on the lower unit become clogged with twigs, mud, seaweed or plastic, they can starve the engine for cooling water. Boat owners should inspect the intake ports and free the ports, or intake screens, of all debris. The trim setting (motor angle) should not be tilted up excessively high where the ports break the water's surface and suck air.
A special tool is made to install freeze plugs: the tool is available at a good auto parts store. In a pinch you can use a large socket that just barely fits inside the rim of the plug, however this can damage the new plug if you aren't careful. more
CAUTION! I have one issue with this freeze plug video: He uses no sealant on the new freeze plugs, and he's not using brass freeze plugs.
I always use aviation grade permatex sealant on freeze plugs. It's available at any good auto parts store.Don't use RTV silicone: I've seen freeze plugs "pop out" with silicon seal.
Freeze plugs will work when put in "dry", but they might "weep" a small amount of coolant.
Normal freeze plugs are hammered in with some sealant around them. I use aviation grade Permatex sealer. more
The hard part is taking the exhaust and intake manifolds off: after that the job is easy. [links]