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25.04.2021 16:54:25
What is the best way to set fence posts in different climates, given that the wind force on a 6-foot-tall privacy fence can be substantial?
See full version: Should I set fence posts in dirt, gravel, crushed rock, or concrete
What is the best way to set fence posts in different climates, given that the wind force on a 6-foot-tall privacy fence can be substantial?
I have received conflicting advice about how to set wooden fence posts.
We set ours in dirt/gravel and realized it was exactly the right choice when our fence was hit by a car 4 months after we built it. The car shattered two 4x4 posts, a gate, and several rails, a 3rd posts was pulled from the ground, and every other post along the run tilted about 5 degrees including a 6x6 corner post; 10 posts had to be reset in all. Our neighbor (whose fence was also hit) had concrete footers, which were pulled from the ground, or shifted several inches but left in the ground. His footers had to be removed and replaced, and all new posts were required. We had to replace the damaged parts (2 posts, a gate and several rails), but we could reset the others. If we'd had concrete I suspect more would have broken, and we would have been unable easily reset any that had tilted (granted fewer might have tilted but that energy had to go somewhere, hence the assumption about more broken posts).
You can’t keep blaming yourself. Just blame yourself once, and move on.
One thing you don’t have to think about in England is frost heave. So, when we built our privacy fence, I didn’t! I sunk the 8′ posts 2′ deep, as I’d been taught.
Frost heave happens when soil moisture freezes and expands. If the soil freezes below the post, expansion will push the post upwards. When the ground thaws, it goes back to normal. But, repeated cycles of heave can loosen the posts and cause the fence to lean, as you can see below.
Frost won’t usually latch onto the side of a house’s foundation because even a small amount of heat from the interior drives moisture in the soil away from the walls. However, frost sometimes grabs onto the foundation of an unheated structure. [links]
Of course, most soils are mixtures of sands, clays, and silts, so you’re not likely to recognize any one type when you dig a footing hole for your deck. Unless you hit gravel or pure sand, it’s usually best to assume that your soil is somewhat frost susceptible. more
Unfortunately, you won’t notice the effects of frost until the damage is done. Frost usually works slowly but steadily, year after year, lifting and shifting a wall or driveway until hairline cracks become gaping chasms. Or you’ll suddenly notice that the 1/4-in. gap between the house and porch has grown to a full inch, or the patio door won’t open because the concrete slab outside has risen and pushed up the sill. here
A shifting foundation will quickly ruin a home and cost the homeowner big bucks, so builders don’t take chances. When they build a house, they give it a “frost footing” made up of foundation walls or piers that extend below the “frost line” so a frost lens can’t form beneath it and lift the house. The frost line is the depth in the ground beyond which frost is not likely to penetrate (Fig. B). [links]
When the outdoor temperature drops below 32 degrees F, the moisture in the ground begins to freeze, starting at the top. As you know, the upper level of soil gets rock hard, so that you need a pick to chip through the top layer if you have to dig a hole. Frost gradually works its way down as persistently cold weather cools the soil at ever deeper levels. If the soil is well-drained and contains little moisture, frost spreads evenly through the soil and won’t cause trouble. But if the soil is wet, the water will often freeze in a paper-thin sheet, called a lens.” Imagine a huge, thin contact lens buried underground. here
To prevent frost heaves, the easiest and least costly solution is to plan in advance for good drainage away from walks, patios, garages, decks and other floating structures (Fig. C).
Once the fence posts are set and aligned, the next step is to attach the rails, install the kick-boards (if you plan to use them) and post the siding (boards, pickets, panels, or other materials). here
Level the rails and nail them to the posts using hot-dipped galvanized common, or box nails that are at least three times as long as the thickness of the rails. When attaching the railings, keep in mind if the railings meet at a corner, miter the ends. If they meet on an intermediate post, butt the ends at the middle of the post. Butted rails should be cut to fit snugly between posts. [links]
Before you get started, and certainly before you did any holes, you should contact your local utilities to determine and mark the locations of any lines for gas, water, hydro, etc. Most regions have a single “Call Before You Dig” phone number you can call to get all the marking done.
The technique you use to attach the siding depends upon the type of material you use. If you’re using panels for siding, consider using a helper or two to lift and hold the panels while you level and nail them into place. On the other hand, nailing boards, slats or pickets can be a one man job. Use a level to check each board for plumb before nailing them to the rails. If you installed kick boards, and they are level, you can rest the siding on top of them. Otherwise, stretch a mason’s line tightly along the fence where you want the bottom of the siding to end, checking the line with a level, to determine the bottom part of the fence siding. And of course, make sure all boards are the same length.
After you have had the post holes dug, be sure to call in an inspector if you are required to do so as a condition of any building permit. Inspectors are usually looking for a certain required depth. more