dtvan
16.06.2021 15:15:52
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
See full version: One more step
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware.
Cloudflare Ray ID: 68804d413d5f16f7 • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare here
But this could cause the finish at the surface to wrinkle as the finish at the bottom dries and shrinks.
The usual finishes that are sprayed are lacquer, shellac and water-based finish. These finishes dry fast, sometimes too fast in warm temperatures to successfully brush onto large surfaces. Spraying overcomes this problem.
Varnish and polyurethane varnish (and oil paint) are different. For varnish to cure, oxygen has to work its way into the finish to cause it to crosslink. If you spray several coats of varnish one after another, the top surface will dry well before the varnish at the bottom, and this will significantly slow the penetration of the oxygen. The result will be a finish that feels dry at the surface but is still so soft that you can indent it with your fingernail, and it will remain like this for many days or weeks. here
You can always allow way more time for the finish to cure all the way through. You can also speed up the curing by raising the heat in the room or applying heat with a heat lamp.
You may typically spray lacquer, for example, spray several coats at a time without allowing drying in between. The drying will be a little slower because there is more solvent in the thicker application that has to evaporate for the finish to harden. But the time difference won’t be great, and there won’t be any problems unless you build the finish so rapidly that it sags or puddles. here
Oil-based varnish, including polyurethane varnish and oil paint, can also be sprayed, of course, because any thin liquid can be sprayed. But you need to be aware of a significant difference. Varnish dries much slower than the other finishes, and unlike lacquer, shellac and water-based finish, each coat should be allowed to fully dry before the next coat is sprayed. [links]
The biggest drawback for varnish is that it will eventually crack or peel, and water and mold can discolor the wood beneath.
For varnish brush clean-up, dunk the entire brush into paint or lacquer thinner in a clean bucket, working the brush against the bottom of the pail. Work the thinner through the bristles with fingers and a wire brush, concentrating at the base of the bristles. Repeat until the varnish is gone before doing a final clean with fresh thinner. Brush out the thinner on a clean board or piece of absorbent cardboard. Finish up by slapping the brush back and forth over a corner of a clean board, and work a dry rag through the bristles a final time. To clean the bucket, wipe it out with a rag and thinner, and give it a final wash with dish soap and warm water. [links]
To begin, pour the oil into the cut bucket. After wetting the sponge in the oil, squeeze most of the excess back into the bucket. Working quickly, wet a large portion of the wood, as much as possible in four to five minutes. Do not let tung oil dry more than five minutes before removing excess oil with one rag and then again with a second dry rag, polishing hard until the surface becomes slick. This hand rubbing is more important on the final coat than the first. Apply a minimum of three coats, allowing 24 hours between each. Almost no sanding is required if you’ve done your polishing well. Later coats can be applied at any time to renew the luster after light cleaning with a rag dampened in paint thinner. [links]
A coat of durable wood finish on your hardwood floors, fine furniture, and outdoor decking can mean the difference between a long, lustrous lifespan and one cut short by the passage of time and exposure to the elements. Given the unattractive consequences of poorly protected wood surfaces and the annoyance of frequent refinishing, it’s smart to do your homework first to ensure that you’re doing your best to preserve these valuable features.
. Up your woodworking IQ and learn which product is best suited for your next project, so you’ll be able to attain the perfect protection from start to finish (pun intended).
Polyurethane is like a liquid plastic, often either a pure synthetic plastic or a blend with resin. There’s an option for everyone: DIYers have the choice of a water- or oil-based resin (and one in between) as well as sheens from flat to satin to glossy. Despite its sometimes milky appearance in the can, polyurethane goes on clear and—in just one or two coats—cures into a scratch- and abrasion-proof hard plastic that is versatile enough for most indoor projects.
Most folks oil their teak platforms, however, thinking oil is easier to apply and keep up than varnish. Maybe, or maybe not: An oil finish needs frequent cleaning and recoating; how frequently varies, but certainly more frequently than you’d probably expect. Experts say to re-oil the teak before you think it needs it. more
Although teak is an oily wood, the “teak oil” sold in marine stores doesn’t usually come from the tree; it’s often a mixture of linseed oil, resin, solvents, and driers. It’s actually not much different from spar varnish, having similar ingredients but in different proportions. Professional wood finishers make their own teak oil by mixing linseed or tung oil and turpentine—it’s a lot cheaper than store-bought, but most of us are better off buying oil ready mixed.
Teak on deck is usually varnished, a process that requires periodic recoating and stripping and a complete revarnishing once in a while. Some skippers varnish their swim platforms, too, using several coats of polyurethane and adding nonskid powder to the final coat to improve footing. (Little suggestion here for the northern set: Remove the platform during the autumnal haul out and refinish it over the winter.) more