An engine that is having trouble idling or is surging can mean many things, but if oil is clogging the current needed to spark combustion, an engine won’t run correctly. here
See full version: Oil On Spark Plugs: Causes, Solutions; Prevention
An engine that is having trouble idling or is surging can mean many things, but if oil is clogging the current needed to spark combustion, an engine won’t run correctly. here
If you are unsure about why this problem is happening, aren’t comfortable about dealing with the issue yourself or you know that a worn valve cover gasket or o-ring gasket is not the issue, it may be best to consult a professional rather than attempt to fix things on your own. [links]
There may not be one specific event that causes oil to leak onto the spark plugs of your vehicle, but educating yourself about all the different possibilities discussed in this article so far – as well as taking preventative measures – will always go far in correcting issues before they happen. [links]
Checking the spark plugs and replacing them isn’t a terribly difficult maintenance job to complete, but it also isn’t as simple a task as checking your tire air pressure or oil level. here
In most cases, this is due to simple age along with wear and tear on the engine. Even when an engine is well-maintained, there will be parts that will need to be replaced, and seals are often the first things to go.
If after sitting for say a month or more unused, you cannot start the engine due to the crankcase is flooded with oil, it's probably due to the inner crank seals are leaking.
Need further detail to try narrowing the possibilities, this is a process of elimination. more
So there you have it, either the oil injection system isn't working properly, or the inner crankshaft seal(s) might be leaking.
Clean the leaky oil injection check valves:
Another possibility for oil seepage into the crankcase while sitting unused is through one or both of the oil injector nozzles. These nozzles have a spring-loaded check-ball valve inside which normally would self-close but over time can become dirty inside, interfering with the check-valve operation. If for instance the check valve ball is not closing due to some contamination, oil will tend to dribble through it unabated, while the engine is not running. It might also be possible to cause constant high levels of oil smoke as well, I'm not sure.
It does seem like I am going thru more oil when it started smoking. Could be that. more
The plugs should have a cardboard brown color to them, black soot is indicative of too much oil or too much fuel. It's unlikely there's too much fuel though, usually the opposite is true but it's a possibility. If too much fuel, you can usually smell the gasoline wafting behind and the engine runs pretty rough. This burns my eyes thus it's what I think of when you mention your eyes sting. here
Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and possible engine damage.
If the deposits are wet, it can be an indication of a breached head gasket, poor oil control from ring or valvetrain problems or an extremely rich condition—depending on the nature of the liquid present at the firing tip.
An engine’s condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug’s firing end. If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally.
If you’ve kicked until you’re blue in the face, it’s time to try the bump-start method. Get a buddy (or two) to push the bike to terminal velocity. Then, pull in the clutch, shift the bike to second gear (third on a big bore) and pop the clutch. Once the bike starts to churn over, keep it moving until you can clean the flooded gas out. Ride it around for a few minutes to clean up the plug. There’s one problem with this method, though. If the bike doesn’t start, you will most likely find yourself at the bottom of a hill.
Another possible reason for a dry spark plug is worn-out piston rings. Your bike relies on the vacuum created by the piston and rings to suck fuel and air into the motor. If you’ve raced your bike nonstop for six months and it suddenly refuses to start, it’s because the piston and rings have become so loose they don’t seal against the cylinder tightly enough to create suction. The solution to this problem is easy. Replace the piston and rings; not only will the bike start, but you’ll also appreciate the new horsepower. here
If there isn’t any spark visible when kicking the engine over, follow these steps: here