greg
12.06.2021 20:47:53
3. The Anode [links]
See full version: Practical Boat Owner
3. The Anode [links]
Remove both the top and bottom bungs and let the oil drain out into a container. [links]
The professionals perform a pressure test to check the seals are still doing their job. Without the right equipment you’ll struggle to do this, so you’ll have to make do with a visual inspection. One way to see if you have a major problem is to leave the engine standing on a piece of clean cardboard overnight and check for telltale leaks in the morning. [links]
Check the oil for water ingress. If the oil is blue or clear, it should be fine, but if it’s cloudy or settled you may have a problem. You can use an oil testing kit to make sure. If there is a leak, take it to a dealer for new seals. [links]
Remove the spark plug with a socket. The electrode of a healthy plug should be a brown or grey colour. If not, clean out any carbon deposits and check the sparking gap matches the recommendation of the engine manufacturer. If the ceramic insulator is damaged or the electrode burnt away, you’ll need a new plug.
2: Remove the screws holding on the bowl. Do this over a tray so you don’t lose any pieces! more
Check the level of the out-drive gearbox fluid to make sure it has the proper level. Inspect all the grease fittings on the steering arm, motor pivot points and throttle linkage. The connections should be lubricated and secured, and should move freely. here
Drain the oil and replace the oil filter if the boat has been sitting for a long time or has been winterized. This will rid the crankcase of any water or fuel that has collected in the engine. You can use an oil evacuation system to remove the oil through the dip stick filler tube, or you might need to unscrew the oil pan drain plug. Drain the old oil into a pan for proper disposal.
Top off the fuel tank(s). Add a fuel additive that will absorb contaminants and water. Make sure the fuel tank vent cap has no obstructions and has the proper venting. Wipe up any gas spills.
Check the fuel filter. If the craft comes equipped with a water sediment bowl, remove it and empty it completely. Replace the fuel filter if the boat has been stored or winterized. Condensation builds up very quickly in boat fuel lines and filters. Replacing the filter will guarantee that no debris or water exists in the filter elements. Trapped water will cause a no-start condition.
Pull the engine cover completely off the the engine and let it air out. Watch for gasoline fumes that might point to a leaking gas line. Check for gas leaks and tighten any fittings. If equipped with ventilation blowers, turn them on and let them run for several minutes, purging all fumes from the engine area.
Use a voltmeter to check the battery for a full charge. Marine batteries, if unattended for any length of time, can discharge, especially at the ground connections. Clean the battery posts and cable connections with a battery terminal brush more
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
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Using equal parts, water and anti-freeze, fill your cooling system and then check all the hoses. You definitely want to keep an eye out for cracks, tears, wearing, or leakage.
Keeping your boat up to date is a lot of work, so take a lot of pride in it and have fun!
If the battery is in good shape, it’s still a good idea to scrub the battery clean of dirt or rust; anything really that can build up on it. Next, clean the terminal post connections. Make sure you remove the terminals and wires from the battery posts first!