See full version: Using carb cleaner on outboard ignition switch
Your stator creates voltage for two reasons. To send voltage to your CDI unit (power pack or switchbox) to run your engine and to send voltage to your rectifier/regulator that will charge your battery. Engines with no spark or intermittent spark on one bank can be caused by a faulty stator. here
Fitting in somewhere between all this is your engines rectifier/regulator. It is always working and its job is to replace the voltage in your battery that you've lost due to engine cranking, using electric tilt and trim, running fish finders, lights or other accessories on your boat. It converts the AC voltage to DC voltage and regulates how much voltage it is putting into your battery. In a lot of cases, a rectifier/regulator also sends the signal to your RPM gauge (tacho) telling you what revs your engine is doing. Sometimes the first sign of a faulty rectifier/regulator is when your RPM gauge stops working and this is very common with older Evinrude/Johnson outboards.
Your boat battery is where it all starts. Outboards require higher cold cranking amps than many other engines and therefore a dedicated marine battery with the correct cranking capacity for your outboard is a must. Without the correct voltage, your outboards starter motor may not be able to crank the flywheel fast enough to activate your ignition system.
Receiving voltage from the CDI unit the coil will amplify voltage and shoot it through to the spark plug. Faulty or damaged coils will have weak or no output. We see a lot of coil failures where customers are using a spark plug that is not recommended by the manufacturer.
When your starter motor is turning over it is spinning your flywheel to create voltage for your ignition system and battery charging system. On the inside of the flywheel are magnets that spin around a stator at high speed to create AC voltage. The flywheel also spins around the trigger (or timer base) to determine your engines firing sequence or timing. Broken or loose magnets on your flywheel will cause ignition issues so they are definitely worth checking. here
Re: Force 40Hp will not start [links]
I have attached a copy of the parts for your ignition assembly and will try and find a schematic, but others here will give you a better indication of what may be wrong as I am not familiar with the force engine of this age. Did your mechanic friend do a check on the coils or try to swap them to see if the other would spark? Could be a few different things and as I say others here will know more how to diagnose and isolate the problem. Motors a bit new for me I am a 70's 80' kinda man LOL
I have taken the carb off and soaked in pinsole for 2 days sprayed with compressed air, so I know the carb is clean.
Next thing to check is the stator windings. Looks like you have a stator that has a low speed winding, and a high speed winding. The wires that go to the stator windings are Blue and Red. I don't know which color is the low or high speed winding. To check them, disconnect the Blue and Red stator wires and measure between each wire and ground or engine block. The Low speed winding should read between 3250 - 3650 OHMs. The high speed winding should read between 75 - 90 OHMs. here
Check the ground connections. Looks like you have a couple of spots where there are multiple wires tied together to ground. Make sure the connections are good and clean. here
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Otherwise the structure wont work as it ought to be. Each part ought to be set and connected with different parts in specific way.