See full version: SX-MHP Steering Arm Removal-Stuck need help
If you don't mind my asking, where did you purchase the new ring from, and how much?
Silly thing is the top part of ring does un-bolt from the main ring, but Volvo will not sell just this part; as you know the enitre assembly has to be purchased. lists for something like $600-$700 I think. [links]
I bring this discussion back to the top. I also had the same problem of water entering through the transom to the bilge. My drive is the same as listed above; SX-MHP. I replaced the Gimbal Ring steering cover o-ring and through-transom bolt (expensive) felt seals. It stopped the leak coming through the through-transom bolts; however, when I put the boat back into the water, I still had water entering and determined it was through the Upper Steering pin O-ring. Following the guidance from the above thread comments it took me about 3 hours and beating the gimbal ring to separate the gimbal ring from the steering lever. I'll reassemble as directed by the Seloc/VP maintenance procedure. HOWEVER, I didn't have part number 24 (Thrust Washer) between the steering lever and gimbal ring upper steering pin. Did this missing thrust washer lead to the Upper steering PIn O-ring leak?
Will let you know on the "taper" issue if I ever get this off. [links]
Re: SX-MHP Steering Arm Removal--Stuck need help [links]
Previously I had no movement so I treat this as a success with cautious optimism! Will continue to bang on it although my hands are bloody and arms are tired.
You can't FEEL a bellows and tell if there is water in it, pull the drive and LOOK for water. You may have water in there from other sources. here
Re: 2000 Volvo Penta SX-M eats U-Joints and How do you remove them. more
Now in 2012 it sounds like the u-joints are going again. I guess I'll have to do it my self this time because both of these guys must be doing something wrong. I have already felt the gimbal bellow and it doesn't seem to have water in it. Any ideas on the source of the failure?
SHIFT CABLE
I accidently gave the shift cable a strong pull. It looks ok so I think I will just double check the linkage movement after re-assembly. Is there anything I can do extra to make sure it is ok? Any seal I may have damaged?
Sorry for the slow pace of this tread. There are seven hours of driving to see my boat and I don’t get time every weekend which is why I try to do all the research I can and get the bright tools/parts. here
Agreed! Not only is pulling the engine (once into it this far) a breeze. you will be able to check/replace many other items you may otherwise over-look! This is a 1989 Bayliner, so this also gives you a great opportunity to inspect your transom core as well. clean and freshen up things. and maybe re-gel coat the bilge area.
Too many things "For" and not "Against" doing this IMO.
Feb 10, 2007 #1 2007-02-10T15:01
Do it right the first time, or expect to do it again. more
Can't be done, you not only have the exhaust Y attached to it, but the inner transom shiield is also attached to it, and that is what holds the engine up.Don S
Ketchikan, Alaska
Feb 10, 2007 #3 2007-02-10T16:49
Don S
Ketchikan, Alaska more
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Engine Alignment Bar Tool Compatible for MerCruiser Sterndrives including: Pre-Alpha "R", Alpha One "MR", Generation II, all Bravo models. This Tool is similar to MerCruiser P/N 91-805475A1 which used to be P/N 91-57797A3. Compatible for Volvo SX P/N 3851083 and OMC Comba P/N 18-4442.The length of the bar is approximately 23-5/8 inch.
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