Loki
12.05.2021 3:48:08
First of all, you need to distinguish between two very different situations. more
See full version: Troubleshooting Volvo: Won; t Start
First of all, you need to distinguish between two very different situations. more
If this helps you, don't forget to investigate why the battery drained in the first place. Maybe something such as stereo or lights was accidentally left on. Otherwise, your battery might be going bad, or your car has a parasitic drain. more
Other problems that will prevent your Volvo from starting include: more
Volvos's most common problem is that the dashboard light turn on, but the engine won't start. In some cases, you may hear a click from the engine.
Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully, 100% charged battery that passes a load test. Confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. If the warning light is on, to temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power or a large voltage drop exists, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. Note that starters can and sometimes do develop intermittent faults due to bad spots on the armature. The bottom line is if there is battery voltage to the starter (and no excessive voltage drop) and yet the starter doesn’t work, it’s dead. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you. [links]
I went out to my car this morning and then simply turned it over. I heard the fuel pump and the dash seemed to have full power but no start. I tried to jump it and that didn't work either. The only problem that the vehicle has as of now is a bad cv joint that needs replacement. I want to tackle this problem but electrical issues in volvos can be difficult. I only tried starting like 10 times. Lastnight I did replace the key fob with a new key fob the key is still the same key. I tried locking and unlocking with the new remote and it worked. I had to go to work so I gave up and took my jeep. I am puzzled what should I do?
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Everything to look for when your Volvo 740 won’t start:
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Simply put, if you don’t have fuel pressure, you will likely need a fuel pump. If you are missing spark, but have injector pulse, you likely need an ignition module. And that module could be part of the PCM. If you are missing only injector pulse, it could be the PCM. Keep in mind, the first thing I do before diagnosis any of these systems is check all the fuses on the car. If you have all of these, then it is likely a problem with camshaft timing. Checking camshaft timing is an extensive process.
My car has 97000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
A couple of things come to mind. I would first ask these questions: Is this a no crank or a no start? I will address both scenarios below.
A no crank is when the motor doesn’t turn when you turn the key. This is a starting issue. Based on your description, I suspect this is what you mean when you say your Volvo 850 won’t start. It is very common for heat to cause the starter motor and bad connection problems. Electricity doesn’t like heat. Heat creates high resistance in an electrical circuit. Most commonly this is a starter issue, but other parts of the primary circuit can have bad connections.
Another possibility is similar to your no crank in that it involves and electrical module. Heat plagues all electrical components. The diagnosis of this, however, will first require you or a mechanic to figure out what is missing when and if there is a crank no start. An internal combustion motor needs spark, fuel pressure, cam timing and injector pulse to run. If any of these are missing, you will need to pinpoint why. Once it is known what your car is lacking, only experience will guide you to determine why or what to check for next. [links]
Keep in mind, your failure is only occurring when it is hot. For a mechanic to diagnose your car, you will need to reproduce the problem. Reproducing the problem could be the most challenging part of this diagnosis. If the failure isn’t occurring, there is no way to diagnose the intermittent failure, and you should have it checked when the problem occurs. If you need help with all of this, I recommend having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose your starting issue in order to have the right repairs done. [links]