omaryamfinleyy
02.06.2021 16:19:03
Post by spyderwire » Thu Mar 27, 2014 9:36 pm [links]
See full version: Welcome to the world s #1 Volvo forum
Post by spyderwire » Thu Mar 27, 2014 9:36 pm [links]
Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).
2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R
Hey guys, I have a problem. My car will crank over, but won't start. The previous night went by just fine, the car ran fine, everything was good. Then the next morning, I go to warm up the car for work, and it doesn't fire up. The engine turns over, and it sounds like it wants to go every now and then, but then it just cranks. I am about 5 hours from the nearest dealer, and no one in this god for saken town knows anything about Volvo's. I'm on my own. So, like I said, she cranks just fine, and every now and then will kinda just barely idle (close to dying), then die. If I wait a day, I can get it to do this type of idling, just once, and then it dies, and cranks from then on. She sounds like she wants to kick over, but doesn't. I disconnected the MAF, and nothing changes. I took out the ETM and cleaned it so it looks new. I also replaced the spark plugs hoping that some miracle would come of it. Of course that did nothing. What can I do?
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Soldering Tips: Later Wires Crimped and Soldered at Terminals. [Tips from Don "Solder King" Foster] My '90 car has this later crimped-and-soldered connection. First, I flowed fresh, clean solder into the crimped connection. Next, I used a solder sucker to pull the solder out. Then I re-flowed and resucked. And again heated the connection and rapped it on the bench to fling out the remains of the solder. Then I was able to pull the brush out, leaving a tiny, crimped hole. Then I reamed the hole with a tiny ice pick and several jeweler's screwdrivers 'til I had the hole opened sufficently. Then I threaded the insulation over the new brushes' pigtails. Then I prepared and tinned the wire ends (new brushes) and tack-soldered on a 2' long piece of fine wire to use as a leader. Then I threaded the spring over the pigtail. Then I stuck the end of the leader through the narrow hole, from the brush side, and used it to pull the pigtail through. Once I pulled enough through, I carefully (and gently) crimped the neck with cutters and then soldered the pigtail. I bent it over and solder about 1/8" down the outside and then cut off the excess. (You must pull enough through so that the pigtail will hold the brush properly in the holder but fully extended.) Before installing the VR assembly, I cleaned the internal contacts with a pencil eraser as well as cleaning the contact in the alternator. I also cleaned and shined up the screw ground and mating surface on the alternator case. [links]
Note: You can print these instructions out, xerox onto a plastic sheet, and mount it near your car battery for on-site reference. [links]
[Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if there is something draining the battery while the ignition key is removed, remove the positive battery terminal, and with a digital electronics meter set to "amps", measure to see if there is any current flowing between the battery terminal and the cable end. For more accuracy, use a low-amp induction probe ammeter to measure current flow through the battery cables. If there is anything more than a couple of milliamps, re-connect the cable and remove fuses one at a time to see if you can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell you what needs to be done.
Purchasing Tips: more
I recently pulled the engine and transmission in order to replace old seals and gaskets. The car has 225,000 miles and was leaking everywhere, but other than that, the car was running fine. I put the engine back in, and the car turns over strongly, but won’t fire. There is no spark getting to the plugs so I checked the distributor wire coming from the coil. There was no spark either. I have checked the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor. Both check out good. I checked all fuses to make sure none were burnt. All good. I double checked all connectors to all sensors and cleaned them with connector cleaner to ensure good contact. I double checked the timing and alignment marks and even put a compression tool in the number 1 cylinder to make sure that it is on top dead center. There are no codes although I am using a regular code reader not specifically for Volvo's. I have hit rock bottom. Any help on why I am getting no spark? I really need this car to run.
Jacob
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Sometimes an ETS light will illuminate in the dash, and is usually accompanied by a rough running vehicle. If yours has experienced these symptoms in the past and now won't start, there's a fair chance your ETM may be on its way out. Luckily, a vast amount of information has been compiled on the internet for this part, along with a great selection of rebuilt and aftermarket solutions to keep your ETM-equipped Volvo chugging along for years to come. [links]
Air, fuel, and spark. The three ingredients of a beautiful explosion that make your car go vroom. As sensors age, they can accrue buildup or fail outright due to the wide range of temperatures a car's engine exposes them to. If the magic ingredient of spark is missing from your no-start equation, check all of the obvious ignition components (Coil, wires, plugs, cap/rotor). If none of them are bad, fiddle with the cam sensor - I even sprayed one with carburetor cleaner and my girlfriend's dead Volvo 850 sprung back to life. I'm replacing the sensor anyway since it's very old, but a severe oil leak or dust buildup can hamper the operation of this vital little sensor and make your car dead in the water. [links]
About the Author: Alex Fiehl
Fuel Pump Relay more
The P80 series shared an interesting failure point throughout its 93-04 run. While fuel pumps are their own type of nuisance, (and easy to repair on a FWD car) the fuel pump relay can throw you for a loop if you suspect the pump itself has died. Before replacing what you think is a dead pump, check to see if the pump is receiving voltage before popping a new one in. In some cases, the relay in the underhood fusebox fails, and this sneaky little guy can drain your wallet chasing a problem that isn't pump related at all.
A no-start condition makes everyone's day just a little bit worse. Whether you're trying to get to work, go for a Sunday drive, or just want to get a bite to eat, a dead Volvo is a useless Volvo. Luckily, a Volvo can fail in the most predictable ways. In no particular order, here's some of the most common failures to make a Volvo nothing more than a lifeless Swedish meatball.