Pippin
09.05.2021 4:59:18
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Engine Information:
Boat Max HP : 75 hp
While this utility does have a hull made of aluminum, it is beneficial to keep the boat clean and dry by covering it properly while not in use. Good maintenance and care can help your vessel stay in good condition and have a higher value at resale. Applicable engine information has been included below since a boat needs reliable power.
Information on this page is provided to you as a free service of iboats.com. Because this information has come from many sources we can not guarantee its accuracy. Even if this information is the same as the original factory specs, boats are sometimes modified. Thus, for safety and other reasons, it is a good idea to verify information here to make sure it matches up with your boat. For additional information, we recommend the iboats forums and a boating safety course. here
Fishing Seats
Fish in comfort from a padded seat with a back. Many confortable upright and fold-down fishing style seats are available with your choice of colors.
The 1987, Commercial is a 14 foot outboard boat. The weight of the boat is 146 lbs. which does not include passengers, aftermarket boating accessories, or fuel. The max rated horsepower of this boat, as listed by the manufacturer, (according to records we have) is 75 hp . If you do not have the manual for your engine then we highly recommend that you get one as repowering is costly and it takes you off of the water. When repowering, it is best to verify this information for the sake of safety and to ensure that your insurance company will cover you.
I have completed the framing of the stern deck, and as you can see, I have gotten the next section of lower deck installed as well.
Bought this hull and trailer for 600. Planned on making an all around boat, with a leniency towards bass fishing. It will be fitted with a 40 horse outboard for large water, which can be replaced with transom mount 24 volt Minn Kotas for electric only waters, or with a 9.9 for 10 horse max lakes. It will also be a fairly practical rig for crappie fishing, striper trolling, and flats fishing. The construction will be all aluminum, as I don't believe in having wood as a boat deck material.
The box you see in the middle is the battery hatch. A starting battery and a deep cycle trolling battery will fit in there, within battery boxes. In the top right of the picture, you can see a portion of the wiring chase. To the left of the battery hatch, is my tackle hatch. It is sized to fit the 360 size boxes I use.
I may need some help posting some of my preliminary drawings and photos. I will be starting the actual conversion sometime soon. I just wanted to go ahead and share some info while I was in a typing mood. I am always open to suggestions from everyone. Sharing things stimulates creativity. So, LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK!! here
Pictures
Compartments -
The rod compartments will be able to hold a 7' 6" rod with 6 inches under the front deck.
You will be able to walk almost the full length of the boat. When the power or tiller motor is needed just flip back the lid, move your seat and go. Sounds good, hope it works. [links]
Conclusion: I needed to design a frame that only mounts where the boat is already rigid and allow the rest of the frame to move or float. Most of my frame will be tied only to the front seat. I will not be cannibalizing any of the boat. It will remain in tack and the conversion is designed around the original boat.
I have done many sketches and finally came up with what I think is a decent shot at a functional conversion. I have a CAD drawing of the layout and compartments. I have all my major pieces of plywood fitted into 4x8 sheets to determine the amount of wood, carpet, hinges, wiring etc. more
Proposed problem: I read and inquired with several boat, welding, and construction engineering experts trying to find the unanimous “bad” results of a conversion. The number one response was – cracking of the hull or spar ribs from stress load. This could be blamed on the installation of rigid framing or boxing in an area of an aluminum boat were the hull was originally allowed to twist or rack slightly to relieve the stress by transferring it through the lateral length of the boat. The rigidity causes the load to “pile” up in a single spot which eventually can cause fatigue and fracturing of the aluminum. For instance, some boats, like mine, have the bench seats mounted to the sides and NOT the bottom. This allows the boat hull to twist (from wakes, waves etc.) under the seat and along the sides. Other boats may be mounted to the floor. If so, the boat twist and yaw does not pass through the bottom or floor. A lot just simply depends on the engineering of the manufacturer. If I were to remove my seats and install a “rigid” frame in its' place, the boat could suffer a fracture under power. If you are only using trolling motors for power, this will be a NON-ISSUE. It is only when you approach the maximum power for which the boat was designed. However, fracture points can occur just from trailering. more
I know I will learn a lot here. This is a great forum.
I do not know how to put this post in the links area or other index areas. I hope this is the right index for posting this. here