benyclawn
04.06.2021 11:30:06
Viscosity (m) tests performed on Brookfield RVT (#7 spindle) at 77 deg F. [links]
See full version: CarbonBond Transom Compound
Viscosity (m) tests performed on Brookfield RVT (#7 spindle) at 77 deg F. [links]
In particular, the compressive strength has been documented by an independent testing laboratory to be 3,895 psi (ASTM 695). This is several times that of plywood and 8 to 10 times that of PVC foam. In addition, the failure mode shows elastic yielding before failure. This makes the CarbonBond POURABLE TRANSOM COMPOUND material an excellent choice for critical applications such as coring transoms on power boat hulls. more
Color and odor: Gray with styrene odor
Physical appearance: thick liquid
Weight per gallon: 7.1 – 7.3 lbs/gal
Uncured stability: 3 to 4 months (depending on storage) [links]
Cavity needs to be dry and void of holes . Once you have determined the correct quantity of material to fill the cavity in continuous pour, catalyze the correct amount of material no more than 5 gal at a time. We recommend doing a small test batch, to monitor gel time and cure rate, that may allow you to closely estimate the time you will have to get the material into the cavity. Working time should be at least 20 min up to an hour, depending on atmospheric and climate conditions. Mix EXACTLY the correct amount of catalyst into PTC.
The chart shows the recommended catalyst addition for a working time of approximately 18 to 20 minutes here
The above is great for treating the ply before you install it, being thinner the penetrate deeper and improve the protection. End grain will suck up a lot of resin so be prepared to add a few extra coats around the edges.
Re: epoxy resin and fiberglass resin,transom repair more
I am finishing a repair that I used Epoxy and Poly on. Lesson learned, I will never do that again. If you can not go all epoxy or if you do not have a good seperating point where the epoxy can stop and poly start and not have to try to get the poly to bond to the epoxy, I would go all poly. more
Re: epoxy resin and fiberglass resin,transom repair [links]
should i drill some holes in the new ply so when i install it to the inside of the outside skin some resin will oose out ,would it make it stronger here
You can use the same mix to form a solid gusset on the inside of the transom, slap it into the corner and shape it will a small jar or other round container, just make sure the finish is without lumps and bumps because sanding this stuff off after curing is hard going.
Something 'sticking' together and something 'bonding' together are two different animals. On a transom repair I would like to know that the two pieces are bonded - not just 'stuck together'. Most construction adhesives do not make a penetrating bond, more of a surface bond. With marine epoxy you will get the penetration into the wood that mates the two surfaces, if properly prepped and applied. You won't be sorry using epoxy, maybe a little poorer but it will be worth the extra cash. [links]
Epoxy. epoxy. epoxy. You want the full surface of each panel completely bonded to the other. Works best if the epoxy has a small amount of structural filler mixed in. This is inexpensive and available at most marine centers. A fine sawdust also works well.
Gary, read a thread were seacast said to use it to rebuild stringers.
Your experience says.
Yes,Use epoxy.Is this the pressure treated ply? If so it must be very dry before the epoxy is applied.
The key is that you don't want any voids (air spaces) between the two panels. more
I am now ready to install transom. As you probably know, after the original transom they caked up layers of some sort of resin connecting the transom to the sides, it's built up pretty good.
I included a couple photos below. Thats fiberglass cloth in there isn't it? That build-up that held in the transom: was that probably poly then? I would have figured epoxy in the 60's! here
I am hoping that if I build it up heavy I should be good.