See full version: Releasing a Stuck Anchor
Short Haul
Pull up line so you're directly above the anchor. "Tail it off" on the cleat, taking a turn around the base and holding taut — don't cleat it off — as the boat dips into a trough. Watch your fingers if it's rough. On the crest of the next wave, the rise of the boat may free the hook. By tailing the line, you can let it slip to prevent the bow being pulled under. more
You’ve anchored for a while to relax, but when it comes time to pull up, the anchor won’t budge. Don’t stress over that stuck anchor. Try these tips for using the boat to break a stuck anchor free. You’ll save your back and your anchor.
Ring Ding
Snap an anchor-retrieval ring and buoy around the anchor line and drive past the anchor at about 45 degrees. The float and ring, which serve as a pulley, will move down the rode. The ball's buoyancy combined with the boat's pull can free a stubborn anchor. Keep driving until you see the anchor ball break the surface astern. At this point, it can easily be pulled in. Note that if the anchor is truly stuck fast, even this technique might not free it. Always use caution when motoring while tethered to an anchor rode. more
Get Stern
Motoring forward while the boat is connected to a stretchy anchor line at the bow is dangerous. Cleat the line at the stern before trying anything more than idle rpm. Never allow the stern to swing into the waves or a strong current.
Thanks for the love. Since there's some interest, I thought I'd add this: here
Anchors resist horizontal movement. The weight of the chain between the ship and the anchor plays an essential role in absorbing upward pull from the ship and delivering only a sideways pull at the anchor, (catenary effect).
How do modern sea anchors work? Do they hook onto rocks? Sink into the sea bed? Just weight the ship down? What happens if they get stuck?
Raise the sails and set them in the close-hauled position on both sides, so the sails are near the centre-line of the vessel. Lash the wheel or tiller so the rudder is fixed straight ahead. here
Soon the boat will attempt to sail out of the circle. It will come to the limit of the anchor cable, which will stop the vessel and turn its head back toward the anchor. This creates slack in the cable which must be stowed on board. [links]
If that doesn’t work, with the boat still directly over the anchor, cleat the anchor line at the bow and gently idle forward into the wind. This will pull on the anchor in the direction opposite from which you originally set it. Continue moving forward until the anchor breaks free.
Few things can ruin a relaxing stop at your favorite anchorage like a battle to retrieve an anchor that’s stuck on the bottom and won’t come free. Here are a few tricks to save your afternoon, and possibly your anchor:
First, pull up on the anchor line so you’re directly above the anchor. “Tail off” the anchor line on a bow cleat, taking a turn around the base and holding taut. Don’t cleat it off in case you need to release the line quickly as the boat dips into a trough – and watch your fingers if it’s rough. On the crest of the next wave, the rise of the boat may free the hook. By tailing the line, you can let it slip to prevent the bow being pulled under.
Go buy yourself an anchor-retrieval ring and buoy. Snap this assembly around the anchor line and drive past the anchor at about 45 degrees. The float and ring, which serve as a pulley, will move down the rode. The ball’s buoyancy combined with the boat’s pull can free a stubborn anchor. Keep driving until you see the anchor ball break the surface astern.
Or not. Chances are that, if the water’s too cold or deep to go swimming, you’re going to end up abandoning your anchor at this point unless you’ve prepared for this eventuality in advance. What could you have done, or can you do now to prepare for the next time?
Go buy yourself an anchor-retrieval ring and buoy. Snap this assembly around the anchor line and drive past the anchor at about 45 degrees. The float and ring, which serve as a pulley, will move down the rode. The ball’s buoyancy combined with the boat’s pull can free a stubborn anchor. Keep driving until you see the anchor ball break the surface astern.
Or not. Chances are that, if the water’s too cold or deep to go swimming, you’re going to end up abandoning your anchor at this point unless you’ve prepared for this eventuality in advance. What could you have done, or can you do now to prepare for the next time?
Few things can ruin a relaxing stop at your favorite anchorage like a battle to retrieve an anchor that’s stuck on the bottom and won’t come free. Here are a few tricks to save your afternoon, and possibly your anchor:
If that doesn’t work, with the boat still directly over the anchor, cleat the anchor line at the bow and gently idle forward into the wind. This will pull on the anchor in the direction opposite from which you originally set it. Continue moving forward until the anchor breaks free.
First, pull up on the anchor line so you’re directly above the anchor. “Tail off” the anchor line on a bow cleat, taking a turn around the base and holding taut. Don’t cleat it off in case you need to release the line quickly as the boat dips into a trough – and watch your fingers if it’s rough. On the crest of the next wave, the rise of the boat may free the hook. By tailing the line, you can let it slip to prevent the bow being pulled under.
Rig a tripping line to your anchor before you drop the hook. This secondary line is attached at or near the anchor’s crown – frequently to a ring or hole on the anchor specifically for fitting a tripping line. The other end of the line is tied to a float which, when released with the anchor, will float more or less vertically over the anchor’s position on the bottom. If the anchor gets stuck, hauling on the tripping line changes the anchor’s angle to the bottom and will usually free it.
The same can sometimes be done with a plastic anchor. Try wedging two or more wooden toothpicks in the anchor, preferably toward the sides (glue probably won't help since it doesn't tend to stick to the soft plastic in anchors).
If the anchor is not spinning, you may be able to create grip within the anchor so the screw will hold. A standard approach to filling oversized screw holes in wood is to fill them with wooden toothpicks, usually coated with wood glue. Once they are dry, the hole is a bit closer to a solid piece of wood and a screw can grip it more firmly.
Both the wall plugs and screws were provided in a kit with the toilet roll holder so I know I haven't picked the wrong size. I also installed this same toilet roll holder in a different bathroom and had no problems.
@BrianK's suggestion is a good one.
You may have to pull out the anchor, fill the hole, redrill it and install a new anchor if the first one has become too misfigured. Be careful not to overtighten. You could also get some other kind of anchors like these screw in kind that hold beter.
What is the problem if the screw spins but the wall plug doesn't? Is there a way to resolve this problem without repairing the holes?