I have not found the right size nylon washers at the hardware stores. The OEM is #311598. You can buy a bag of 50 here at iboats #18-42481-9, if you want to keep a supply on hand. The Mercury washer also works. [links]
See full version: Johnson 9. 5 Lower Unit Oil Change
I have not found the right size nylon washers at the hardware stores. The OEM is #311598. You can buy a bag of 50 here at iboats #18-42481-9, if you want to keep a supply on hand. The Mercury washer also works. [links]
Re: Johnson 9.5 Lower Unit Oil Change more
Re: Johnson 9.5 Lower Unit Oil Change [links]
Re: Johnson 9.5 Lower Unit Oil Change
Thanks for the reply. The "crush washers" for the plugs, are they just o-rings (from the hardware store) I can replace or do i need to purchase a model specific dealer item specificly? Is the "pump" you spoke of necessary or optional? I noticed the jugs of marine gear oil have a pointed spout, is it possible to just use that?
Any idea what the gear oil capacity of this motor is? here
14’ Starcraft Sea Scamp Boat, 9.5 hr. Johnson Outboard motor, & 30lb Minn Kota Trolling motor.This 14’ Starcraft Sea Scamp Boat is an excellent fishing boat. As a jon boat can get into really skinny (shallow) water, and is light enough that the 9.5 hr. Johnson Outboard motor pushes h . here
For sale is a beautifully restored 1953 Johnson 10 hp outboard motor. Everything under the cowling was replaced, new coils, plugs, plug wires, points, condensers, fuel lines, and rebuilt the carburetor and resealed the carburetor float with fuel-proof epoxy. Also changed the oil in the lower end and . [links]
1983 Johnson 25 HP outboard motor, long shaft, tiller handle, rope start, runs good. .
For Sale: 1972 Johnson 9.5 hp outboard motor 50th Anniversary Series. The motor is
a two stroke and has plenty of power out of the hole without the weight of a four stroke.
The motor weight is 59 lbs. Very easy to transport and clip onto the transom. Actually has a factory
built in carry handle. The motor is a short shaft and has forward, neutral and reverse. The model
number is 9R-72M. Motor runs very strong . Along with the motor, an original steel 6 gallon fuel tank is
included. They no longer make two strokes at this horsepower rating. Cash and carry, local pick up only.
$675.00 . I can be reached at (860) Five, Five, Nine,- Seven, Nine, Five, Nine. Ask for Mark .
Thank you.
14’ Starcraft Sea Scamp Boat, 9.5 hr. Johnson Outboard motor, & 30lb Minn Kota Trolling motor.This 14’ Starcraft Sea Scamp Boat is an excellent fishing boat. As a jon boat can get into really skinny (shallow) water, and is light enough that the 9.5 hr. Johnson Outboard motor pushes h . more
Re: how to make a shear pin for a 9.5 hp johnson? here
Well I just got a old 1965 9.5hp johnson, I been wanting one since I was little. My grandpa used to have one just like it and used to take me fishing all the time. I remember that one day the shear pin broke and we had to paddle all the way back. Since that I try to always have a extra shear pin with my all the time. Anyways, like I said I just got a 1965 9.5 hp johnson and I been looking for a shear pin for it almost everywhere. I try few marines around here but the dont have them. The only places I saw it was on ebay. I had some bad experiences on ebay before so I dont want to buy it from there. So I was wondering if anyone knows how I could make one. I know that the shear pins are made of different materials thats why Im asking for help. I have a little experience working with metal so I have the tools to cut it and everything. The prop size is 8 1/4x8 1/2. the shear pin size that I have now is 3.5cm x 5mm
or 0.2in x 1.4 in. I pretty much just need to know what type of metal is to make it. but if you think there is something else I should know I would really appreciate your help.
Thanks. [links]
The pin is a stainless steel drive pin. part # 0307949, available from your BRP/Evinrude dealer.
Pull the feeler gauge up and down, making sure you have a slight drag on the gauge. Tighten both screws. Perform the identical adjusting procedure on the other set of points. Place both condenser wires back under their spring clips on both sets of points. Apply a finger dab of marine grease on both shafts. Replace the points cover and screw it down with a screwdriver.
Place a flywheel strap around the perimeter of the flywheel and hold it taut. Use a socket and long-handled ratchet to loosen and remove the flywheel nut. Have an assistant to help you with this operation if you need more leverage. Place the three holding hooks of a harmonic balancer puller underneath the bottom lip of the flywheel. Screw the threaded pulley bolt onto the depression in the crankshaft end. Turn the pulley bolt clockwise with a socket and wrench, breaking the flywheel loose from the shaft. more
Place the motor, if trailered, in an accessible spot. Remove the key from the ignition, if so equipped, and activate the main ignition cutoff switch. Trim the motor level, if you have electric trim. Place the motor in the full down position by removing the motor tilt pin and adjusting the motor for the full down position. Replace the tilt pin. Unclasp the top engine cowl snaps and pull the case off. Use a socket to remove the case, if it uses bolts for fasteners. more
Use a flat-head screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws for one set of points. Remove the other two screws from the other set of points. Pull both sets of points out and discard them. Place the new points in their mounting grooves. Screw all four mounting screws in by hand, then tighten them with a screwdriver, just enough so they fit snug. here
Pull the flywheel off. Use a screwdriver to remove the ignition points case screws. Set the case aside. Examine the ignition points, which might be a single set or a dual set. Each point unit has a lever arm, rubbing block, contacts and two screws each. If replacing the points, wedge the small spring retainer open that hold the condenser wire to the points -- two wires for two condensers. Pull the wires free. here
The ignition points in a Johnson outboard motor function like any other ignition points, in that they transfer a magneto spark through two point contacts. The point contacts open and close according to the camshaft rotation, which opens and closes the valves. The points send voltage to the spark plug wire and onto the spark plug. Ignition points can suffer from wear, carbon soot and burning. When the point contacts wear or accumulate carbon buildup, the dwell (ignition timing) changes, resulting in a poorly running engine.