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A 4-stroke outboard motor is similar to the engine in a typical family sedan. Using a 4-stroke combustion system, the 4-stroke outboard motor is a cleaner alternative for the environment than its 2-stroke cousin. Instead of mixing oil with gasoline in an effort to lubricate the 2-stroke motor's top end, the 4-stroke outboard motor uses an oil pump in conjunction with an oil reserve within the engine itself to pump oil to the critical areas of the motor. This system produces much less smoke, runs more quietly and also is less destructive on critical engine components, such as spark plugs. Many 4-stroke outboard motor designs also operate at slower speeds and remain cooler than 2-stroke models, making them a good choice for fishermen who like to troll. here
These advancements don't only benefit 4-stroke outboard motor design; commonly 2-stroke only markets, dirt motorcycles, snowmobiles and even some chainsaws now are powered by 4-stroke engines. This use of 4-stroke engines is much more environmentally friendly due to the reduction in exhaust emissions. The typical 4-stroke outboard motor is also much quieter than a comparable 2-stroke version. This cuts noise pollution and creates a friendlier and more enjoyable outdoor experience for most enthusiasts. Many owners also report fuel savings from their 4-stroke outboard motor as compared to a 2-stroke motor, and this helps in the reduction of fossil fuel usage.
The advantage a 2-stroke outboard motor typically had over a 4-stroke outboard motor is that they made power very easily with a small engine package. This engine trait made the 2-stroke a popular engine for chainsaws, dirt bike-style motorcycles and outboard boat motors. In applications in which weight was a primary concern, an air-cooled 2-stroke engine was often the logical choice. Advancements in 4-stroke outboard motor design has created a package that offers plenty of power in a relatively lightweight engine package. This has been accomplished through the use of improved alloys as well as increased performance in cylinder head design. here
Another benefit of using 4-stroke motors over 2-stroke motors lies in the cost savings of routine maintenance. A typical 2-stroke motor will require new spark plugs multiple times during a single season, depending on frequency of use. The 2-stroke engine is also notorious for becoming oil and dirt covered, requiring frequent cleaning between uses. The 4-stroke motor is not only much friendlier to spark plugs, requiring changes only at normal intervals, it is much cleaner. The cleaner exhaust reduces the oil and dirt film that so frequently accompanies the 2-stroke motor.
* Change to a boat with a lesser hull width. This reduces the hulls’ ‘wetted’ area, (& therefore drag)
* Planing hulls want a minimal ‘vee’, as, the flatter the ‘vee’, the less the energy needed to push them forward.
* In all cases, reducing the weight of your hull will reduce viscous losses. It’s practical to make / find a hull less than 30kg
* Practical on the water testing of these ideas will reveal the best solution for your hull & motor combination.
* Improve your wake factor. If your propellor is exposed to a disturbed flow of water, then, you are said to have a poor wake factor. Re-position your propellor to an undisturbed flow of water to better your wake factor. This would apply, say, in a tunnel hull boat, where, lowering the motor to a clearer flow of water has been proven to increase speed. Also, this would apply, say, in a deeply keeled boat, where, off-setting the motor to a clearer flow of water has been proven to increase speed. more
* If the prop has worn or damaged tips, then, replace it or have it rebuild it
* Balance your prop. Strangely, British Seagull the manufacturer, didn’t seem to balance their propellers very well, (if at all). It’s usually found that standard propellers can be hugely out of balance. Given your prop spins at around 1000
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* Flywheel removal is best avoided where possible. However, for an explanation of the recommended technique click here
* Test the true performance of your ignition by removing the spark plug & gaping it to 0.060″, then rotating the flywheel only by hand. This increased gap simulates the resistive load experienced by the ignition system when the spark plug electrodes are subjected to normal cylinder compression. The flywheel rotation by hand simulates the cranking speed at the peak of compression
* Move the coil laminations as close as possible to (but without touching) the flywheel magnets by adjusting the mounting. The laminations can be slotted to better this. The electrical output of the coil is proportionate to the inverse of the mathematical square of the separation gap between the laminations & the passing magnets. Basically this means a small reduction in the lamination gap will greatly improve the ignition output. This is a little known secret to make the engine start easily
*Check the plate on which the ignition is mounted is firmly fixed to the crankcase. The fixing of this plate is crucial to the correct ignition timing & unfortunately it tends to get bumped when lifting or transporting the motor.
* Practical on the water testing of these ideas will reveal the best solution for your hull & motor combination. here