[namkeeno]

at this time I have no blockages or overheating issues so this is preventative maint. before I do have any issues show up. [links]

[gena]

the engine only has about 300-400 hours on it so im wondering if there is a recommended descaler or something I can run through the engine to be sure it cleans out all the areas I cant see or get to like the heads and such or is it best to just do as I did the last time? [links]

[nowhereman]

I am trying to keep it in good shape and get this thing back to as close to new condition as I can and the only thing that worries me is the corrosion eating at it from the inside. [links]

[jrrr4518]

I took my time with a metal coat hanger and dug it all out then soaked the lower unit in oil overnight. I also removed the thermostat and found the interior of the water jacket "frosted" with corrosion but no loose flakes so I plugged the water tube and filled the block completely with oil and let it sit overnight as well. I then drained everything and let all the remaining oil drip out before reinstalling the thermostat and replacing the impeller then I let it sit for a second day so it got a full 48 hours for the oil to neutralize the corrosion inside the engine. [links]

[Marlsfarp]

I have an old motor that's been taken care of but mainly used in salt water. its a 2002 model Suzuki df40 and becxause of an illness it sat for a few years without being flushed well or used at all for a few years after some heavy salt water use. well about 5 years ago I was able to take care of all the neglected maint issues and was saddened to see I had to clear the water pump and lower unit water passages from corrosion flakes that covered everything and actually blocked the water intake solid above the prop. here

[songcopy65]

so is there something that's safe to put in a drum with water and run the motor to dissolve and flush it all out?

[Eloar]

If you get the luxury of picking out an outboard motor, how do you go about doing it? Just like any major decision, you’ll have to choose which criteria are most important to you. more

[pmw]

All outboards are designed to be used in fresh or saltwater. Saltwater is corrosive, but these engines are designed to take it with stainless steel components. here

[azazar]

These are some of the best outboard motors for saltwater that have launched in the last few years: here

[donaldmoreg]

Planing boats are designed to leap on top of the water and on “plane.” A planing hull requires a certain amount of horsepower to get up onto plane, and then any excess power can be used to increase their top-end speeds. Bass boats, center consoles, ski boats, and cigarette boats are examples of planing hull boats. Planing hulls can range from 8-foot long rigid inflatable dinghies to 100-plus-foot motor yachts. [links]

[dfieldshorns84]

Within one to three hours, depending on the product, the lime deposits were either rapidly disappearing, or becoming loose. What constitutes clean will depend to some extent on the application; the deposits will probably be loosened sufficiently to flush out before they are completely dissolved, which can take considerably longer. here

[GoldRush]

Among the fast and steel-safe chemicals, you have a choice between many effective and relatively user-friendly descalers, and muriatic acid, which is dirt cheap but stinks to high heaven and requires user caution. here

[mustvisit]

Descaling chemicals range from weak acids to strong acids, and are available both as generics and as pre-formulated solutions. Among generics, we tested white vinegar, oxalic acid, and muriatic acid (AKA hydrochloric acid or HCl). Among pre-formulated solutions we tested CLR, Lime-A-Way, Rydlyme, Barnacle Buster, and Sew Clean.

[espermatzd]

Among the fast and steel-safe chemicals, you have a choice between many effective and relatively user-friendly descalers, and muriatic acid, which is dirt cheap but stinks to high heaven and requires user caution. [links]

[chariottrading]

Copper and brass are also susceptible to chloride stress cracking. Stainless steel and brass bellows-type hoses are particularly vulnerable to cracking and should be removed during cleaning with hydrochloric acid-containing chemicals. [links]

[kdawson]

Many retailers are now stocking only green hydrochloric acid, which is the same acid packaged at 20 percent to reduce user exposure to fumes. Because the fume concentration is reduced 90 percent at this lower concentration, this is a safer choice, although 50 percent more is required to get the right mix.

[Svick]

Bottom Line: This is our Best Choice for cleaning aluminum-containing systems.

[sixtoxxy88]

If we were forced to pick an overall winner, we would give the nod to Sew Clean for its combination of speed, reasonable corrosion rates, and relative safety. For descaling engine cooling passages, CLR is a safe bet, following the engine manufacturers guidelines. [links]

[true]

In addition to all of that lovely salt, seawater is very hard, nearly saturated with calcium. All it needs is something to react with (uric acid in the head) or localized overheating (engine) to create concrete-like incrustations. Sometimes mechanical removal is possible; a favorite cruiser ritual involves hauling out the sanitation hoses and beating them on concrete to remove internal scale build-up. Heat exchangers can be reamed out with a rod, but most engine and plumbing systems are inaccessible without considerable disassembly.